Has anyone succesfully got a Wemos D1 mini to communicate with a p9813 RGB driver board (attached a link of a similar unit below). I got the shield working fine with an Arduino UNO but using logic level shifters on the Wemos isnt working with FastLED.
I’m pretty sure it’s a pin assignment issue.
I’ve tried a bunch of different define for raw pin order and d1 pin order as documented in the wiki but no success.
Can a voltmeter detect whether clock and data lines are transmitting?
Thanks in advance.
Which pins have you tried?
Used D2 and D3 for a while then tried D6 and D7 using many different combinations of pin labels shown here
I had things pretty much souldered together so changing was hard as after prototyping with an arduino I figured it would be plug and play. I just set up a breadboard version today so changing pins will be significantly easier.
Wemos D1 mini
12v supply
5v supply
4-channel bi directional shifter
RGB driver board (based on p9813)
Which level shifter are you using?
D5 to D8 are normally good, defined as D5 etc. Avoid D3 it has unexpected results 
Are the 12v and 5v earth’s connected?
Level shifter is similar to the one below just not that brand.
So I should be able to get it working only including the fastLED library without those pin map modifiers defined?
The 12V never sees the V3 and 5V logic side of the circuit so I didn’t connect the GNDs. The 3V3 and 5V GNDs are connected. I will give it a shot tomorrow with the new circuit and see what I come up with.
https://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=https://cdn.sparkfun.com//assets/parts/8/5/2/2/12009-06.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12009&docid=c0UIZCsQjFvdaM&tbnid=wlg82tFAKlEEkM:&vet=1&w=600&h=600&hl=en-ca&source=sh/x/im
Those level shifters are very unlikely to work. You’re almost certainly better off without it…
You’re right, the 12v ground shouldn’t matter
I’ve just ordered four of these, so interested in how you get on
Interesting why do you think these shifters won’t work? Are they not able to keep up with water signal is going no through clock and data?
I did first try without the level shifter but only on D2 & D3 purely cuz it slipped me mind the logic level difference. I may have to try it again on other pins.
Haha if I ever get this sorted I’ll let you know.
The project is basically Alexa enabled RGB light strips. Currently every scene is found and can be toggled on or off using Alexa with the HSV colour also be able to be changed through Blynk so you won’t have to reflash the board to change the scenes.
Try D5 and D6 without the level shifter
Ok will have it together pretty soon
No dice.
I used the uno again and they clock and data pins are up around 50mV ( multimeter doesn’t register the signals) and the driver runs the LEDs fine.
On the D1 the data pins were around 12mV range and with level shifter up to 25-29 mV
Tried a couple different combinations tried including SPI.h using pins 13 and 14 or D7 and D5
Will have to look around more for some other information to see what I’m missing
Try powering the board from the 3.3v pin on the D1 mini
If not you’ll need a proper level shifter, a 74HCT245. @Jason_Coon makes a nice shield for the D1 mini with the level shifter, resistors and capacitors
My project, Spaceship Menorah, uses seven of these drivers to power seven long “dumb” rgb strips. They are talking just fine without level conversion to my WeMos D1 Mini. I’ll check which pins I have chosen. When first testing the installation, I blew up one of the MOSFETs on the board. I tracked this down to high voltage spikes coming from a re-purposed Sony PS3 power supply when it was turned on. Adding two large electrolytic capacitors in parallel across the power rails solved this. I was also able to replace the blown MOSFET by soldering in an IRF540. The color looks a little different for that strip now, but I think it adds some welcome variety. My original plan with the Spaceship Menorah was to add some more addressable LED modules to each of the center “dots” but I was not able to get these to communicate without terrible flickering, either from the WeMos or a separate arduino. I will take some more photos of how it looks now and update the http://hackaday.io project gallery.
https://hackaday.io/project/10148-spaceship-menorah
@Garrett_Durland I saw your project on hackaday and left a comment!
That would be awesome I’m hoping it’s just a mix up with my pins and defines.
Really want to get my project up and running so looking forward to the info!
@Anthony_Alkins The way it’s working right now is clock is on D7 and data is on D6.