Have been asked to reproduce the below for a Customer. It’s a 1930’s Bakelite Speedometer housing. 5 and half hours later It’s designed and it’s now on the printer running off a test version. Damn happy with the outcome, let’s just hope there’s no real tweaks that need doing. I know the holes on the back are right, as I ran off a few 2-3 layer tests to get them properly aligned as I had no real reference points to get them aligned properly. I just need to find a decent colour match for the Bakelite in PETG now.
Cool. Very satisfying when you can please a customer (at least I hope he’s pleased!).
@Jon_Gritton - they’ve not seen it yet. I’ll be dropping off the tester tomorrow. However, aye, it’s damn satisfying when you can pull something like this off.
Its the first time i See someone using 3d printing for restoration of oldtimer parts.
Thx for sharing it
@Sebastian_Schmidt - there’s always going to be parts that you can no longer get, it’s an avenue that has just opened it’s door to me.
Depending on what the customer says, you might consider beefing up the gussets and adding some wall thickness where possible. The dimensional constraints on curing Bakelite don’t apply to you, and PETG is a less rigid material (I think) so more thickness could be advantageous.
@Ryan_Carlyle - it’s due to be printed in E3D Edge, the walls are around 4.5mm thick (variable due to various parts) as per the Bakelite version, which is plenty enough for a PETG with 70% rectilinear infill. I’ve not filleted edges yet to add further strength and material, so it’ll be plenty strong enough. Most of the holes have metal clamping parts which go through them so that will also spread the load. Not my first Rodeo 
Good, sounds plenty strong then. It didn’t look that thick from the picture on my phone.
Looks great! Here’s hoping it won’t get too warm for petg. You could always print a mold for epoxy+glass.
@Mark_Fuller - it’s due to be printed in E3D Edge then sanded and quite possibly lacquered to get it looking as close to Bakelite as possible. It shouldn’t soften as the glass transition is around 80c and it’s open to the air when the motorbike is moving, so it should never get that hot.
Love to see applicable uses like this. I’ve found myself using my printer to fix a lot of parts on car restorations. It’s almost easier to print nylon bushings than to use the crappy ones that I could buy
Well done! I’m printing some parts for my Harley restoration. I love when new tech meets old!
Brook
Printrbot
@Brook_Drumm love old bikes! What Harley are you restoring?
It’s not that old 1987 Sportster… A sentimental thing.