Hello everybody! I was planning to install a HPB on my Replicator 2,

3D Printing
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1

Hello everybody!
I was planning to install a HPB on my Replicator 2, but first, I will need to replace the power supply.
I was wondering if it were possible to use a PC power supply (with a little work) instead of a dedicated one.
Is the one you can see in the link sufficient? If my NOOB physic level is right, I only need a 120W power supply in order to have a 12V - 10A output.
Thanks a lot.
http://www.steg-electronics.ch/fr/article/lc-power-lc420h-12xxx-145102.aspx

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http://www.easyreprap.com/?deeplink_referrer=socialB_google#!product/prd1/2005009735/30amp-12vdc-power-supply

3

I know I may use that power supply. Because I should buy it outside Switzeŕland, it will cost much more money (shipping + taxes) than a simple PC power supply I could buy at a local retailer.

4

I use a pc power supply without issues.

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@Jason_MeGahee Thanks a lot for this answer. So I can understand, with your answer that the circuit is a serial and the amperage is the same on every wire.
Now, I will have to know which wire has 12V… :wink:

6

If you dont want to mess with the modifications, you could just get a 12V directly from your PC to your 3D Printer (if you have some decent psu). You can even add a switch.

7

yellow wires are 12V, red one are 5V

8

be careful, there may be multiple “rails” that the 12 v lines run on. often nicer power supplys have 2 or more rails and both receive only a portion of the amps

9

also you need more than 120W to get 10A at 12V out. PSU’s are generally only about 80% effecient. If it will even give you 10A, pushing past the 80% is a good way to trigger and overload shutdown.
Both of my printers use ATX supplies. One has a 400, and the other uses a 650 that came out when I upgraded my PC. the 650 is almost insufficent to power a 300mm heated bed.
also, please read this:
http://reprap.org/wiki/ATX

10

I agree with Chapman, bigger is better. Especially if you are going for a heated bed, which really you should. My 400 watt power supply is kind of weak. But still, it’s easy enough to hook up.

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Bigger is not always better. But try to aim at 50-70% max of the capacity. If you need 70watts, try to get a 100watts of continuous power (not peak) minimum.

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Thanks a lot for all these answers… It helps a lot!
@Chapman_Baetzel Thanks for the link, I think I’ll have some more answers there.
@Sebastien_Plante How will I know the continuous power of a power supply?

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Check the side of the power supply or on the retail box. That info is provided by the manufacturer.

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sometimes, cheap psu only have the “max” (peak) written. In this case, I assume continuous (RMS) is 50% of max.

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Thanks a lot! Lots of info
Now, I’ll have to power my replicator 2 with the new power supply. Not so relaxed! :wink:

16

Take a look at this : http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

My lab PSU is based on that. I use it to power my Delta until I find a nice place to setup the PSU :slight_smile:

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@Sebastien_Plante Thanks a lot… or should I say: Merci beaucoup?

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Je parle effectivement français (langue native) du Quebec!

19

You must connect the green and black wire only

20

Its not that simple. Especially if the PSU have a load test, it will shutdown by itself.

You can start a PSU like that, but not use it stable