Help! This keeps happening every time I print fairly large objects to any one side.
ABS. Using MakerBot Replicator 2X
Do a few trials with retraction speed too to perfect the prints without warping. Print small things to test with various numbers.
This can not be completely avoided. A little post-processing will do fine.
It seems though, it happens when the print requires to move away from the center. If I print a box 3x3" in the center, perfect.
One great tip is to “paint” the platform with a slurry of ABS and acetone. http://www.instructables.com/id/100-Warp-Free-MakerBot-3D-Printing/step1/Put-ABS-Scraps-and-Acetone-in-a-Jar/
The warping is a result of uneven thermal contraction of the ABS, in your case it’s likely that the edge of the bed is cooler than the centre, so a bead of ABS, deposited at the same temp as it exits the nozzle will cool more rapidly at the edge of the bed, the higher the temperature gradient, the greater the contraction, so the plastic at the cooler edge will contract more and when this occurs repeatedly (layer by layer) as a fresh layer retracts, it pulls the layer underneath up slightly. ABS has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than pla so the effect is much much more noticeable. To fix this you need to equalise the temperature of the printing volume, ideally by enclosing it. Something as simple as a cardboard box will help. You absolutely must not lift the box during printing though as its as bad for abs prints as opening the oven is for Soufflé .
Had this problem with pla, ended up painting the surface with diluted wood glue… Solved the problem, it’s just getting the print off afterwards… It sticks like s+#t
Not sure about abs
Replicator 2X? Oh I know this problem very well 
The heatbed is extremly unflat. So try to print no layer below 0.15.
2. check your calibration an bring the printhead(nozzle more close to the heatbed.
I use a normal thin paper from my printer for this. Have a special look on the edges of the heatbed.
Increase your heatbed temp and as @Tim_Rastall , close the volume. But I think it’s a Rep 2X (isn’t uit?). So it should already be completly closed. Never use the printer without the closed door and the transparent hood on top.
Sometimes it helps a bit to heat the whole printer for a while.
Just start the heating process, close everything, and wait some minutes until the hood is handwarm.
@Sandblastcity_Blackp I need to try this wood glue. Thanks for the suggestion.
If you printing on a glass bed, just be careful, make the mix very very weak( almost water). I have had prints where the part shells the Glass trying to get the part off
I generally wait for a few minutes to let the glassbed cool off. Then the printed part automatically cracks from the glass, which is easier rather than trying to peel off.
I use a replicator 2x at work and bed is badly warped. Make sure bed is cleaned well with alcohol or acetone. Make sure bed is leveled. Ensure correct filament diameter is entered if necessary as I’ve found Makerbot sending oversized and undersized filament, the undersized causing adhesion problems for me. Make sure to use raft and hex infill. And make sure you have the latest firmware and maker ware. My adhesion has improve incredibly with the latest software updates. Many times I can’t remove the parts without breaking them.
Oh, also try using natural filament, we’ve given up on colors, too much variation in print quality and settings.
Good luck
Those large flat walls will always pull up the corners or cause splits as long as some of the print it hot and some of it at ambient. ABS shrinks about 1% when cooling from extrusion temperature to room temperature. The only solution is to either keep everything warm (heated chamber), or design stress reliefs into the object.
Slow your print time drastically. The effect is caused by several layers drying at one and the force is more with every added layer. If you slow down the print time to allow each layer to dry it will reduce the forces that are peeling your model from the print bed.
From my big list of tips to stop warpage ABS (not PLA)
I can print nearly edge to edge without pullup/warpage on a rep2x now.
- Lower your print temp to whatever is comfy but still pumps out filament consistently.
- Slow your speed down - if you are normally at 90 go down to 50-60.
- Like baking cookies - do your best to keep the heated chamber at constant temp. Keep door closed.
- Try adding “ears” to your piece - sometimes called “helper discs”.
- If you are using Kapton Tape - try painting on a slurry of ABS/Acetone - I do this on all prints now.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH EVERYONE! I WILL TRY AND HOPEFULLY A SOLUTION!
I’ve also had great warp prevention on my works 2x with the use of ABS slurry. From your picture it doesn’t look like you’re using any. Pro: It sticks like crazy. Con: It sticks like crazy