Here I’m cutting one face of four cubes. I’d like to do 16 in one go but my stock Sh1 is slightly too small.
I took the G-code for one block and then copy-pasted it together with judicious use of the G92 code to change the origin between blocks. Works great, although ChiliPeppr sometimes gets confused as to where the bit actually is.
What’s not seen is the “oops” moment when I’m doing another face and forgot to copy-paste the retract motion before I do my re-origin, so I have a bunch of Zorro blocks.
Endstops (well, really just homing stops) are the best upgrade I made to this machine.
This looks nice. What was the nature of the cube design? Were you just etching a design pattern? Did you have to custom cut that acrylic to use as a holder for the cubes?
Thanks. The cubes will have a different pattern on each side (all combinations of “dark” and “light” quadrants). This job was doing what I call the “2 trans” pattern, aka checkerboard.
Yes, I custom cut the HDPE in the fixture. By hand (oh the irony). It’s mounted onto a polycarbonate sheet that I’ve bolted down to the bed so I have a complete fixture that can be removed/replaced quickly. Combine the fixture with homing stops and WCS it becomes really nice to work with.
Once these 16 blocks are completely done (engraved and drilled) I’m upgrading to at least a 500mm Y axis. I will leave the X alone because I don’t have a replacement drive shaft that’s long enough.
Nice work. I need to find some time to put together some driver boards before I can get going, but the first project in mind is making a set of alphabet blocks for my son.
