Thanks @Chris_Bero , I am trying to reconcile when I am ready to kiss off support (I think PB doesn’t like you making modifications).
aint 225C-230C at the lower low end of ABS, shouldn’t it be between 240-260C
I was using the settings suggested originally, but point well taken. Perhaps higher temps are called for, so long as the PEEK doesn’t get softened.
heat creep with abs & peek was an early problem but a ptfe tube along with cooling shorted that, give credit to the extruder, kept on pushing, "
one those moment you wished the hobb chewed that fila at the extruder."
@jinx_OI my opinion is that 240-260 for ABS means that you have a partial blockage. My ABS had a recommended temp of 218.
@NathanielStenzel brand is that 218,
means that you have a partial blockage, stop using those clone then 
fun aside don’t agree with you on that,
there variables to consider , brand, hotend, extruder.240-260 more of a rule of thumb , you need to experiment to find the best result, but going round saying a general brandless ABS is safe at 218, not right it kill threads in peek,
modern plastic is getting lower printable temp, but I sooner start high and work down before wrecking an $90 hotend
@jinx_OI my experience with my original hotend (SeeMeCNC) for my RostockMax2 was that 240+ temps damaged the ptfe liner. That was a ways ago now.
Yeah, I gave up on my Ubis hot ends a while back. I have a genuine E3D v6, and a Chinese clone. The clone works surprisingly well! I will say this though: the E3D nozzle is CLEARLY better. I just took a picture of it with my iPhone to compare it to a bunch of spare cheapo replacement nozzles I bought, and there was no contest–the E3D was obviously machined to tighter tolerances. But, I have to admit that the clone has been working well.
I have the same printer with the same hotend. I have been printing ABS at around 250-255c for about 2 years without a problem from the hotend. I have tried several covers for the print bed including glass with some foil tape at the spots where the probe measures. I found the best solution to be buildtak. I don’t normally have adhesion problems but if I print something large and flat I use a little coat of glue stick on the buildtak to help out. I do run my bed rather hot 100-110c but I have upgraded my power supply and added a blower fan to the vent on the rear of the printer to keep the electronics cool.
Don’t get a clone, spend some money and get the real deal.
@NathanielStenzel my one gripe with the liner in the heatbreak if a tiny gap between the nozzle and liner, where crusty plastic " lack of a better word" builds up, been noted that after a few week, months print quality deteriorate. but you just plan to replace on the next maintenance circle “liner cheap enough to replace”.
240+ temps damaged the ptfe liner" thought ptfe was reliable upto 300 C softens at 240-260 "not if we gonna go poking around the hotend at that temp thou.
@jinx_OI only if the PTFE liner is in the hot zone is it a problem.