Here’s a followup to yesterday’s mess. The hot end is probably salvageable but I won’t bother. One thing is for sure, at $75 per hot end I will be looking to use an E3D clone at some point. And calibration is such a pain. I really hate Z probes. Playing with M212 is as much anoain as a Z stop screw but at least I can use a sheet of paper to get Z min right…
My My, yeah, that looks familiar…
When I got to the point I had blown up 3 J-Heads, I switched to the Original E3D V.5. 20 builds later, I still swear By the OEM. never had ANY issues to Date.
If you get a clone, be prepared to debur and smooth the inside yourself. You get what you pay for.
Even if I get an original still easier to get. Bottom line, I’m starting to not like this printer.
The E3D clones will give you tons of problems. I bought a couple to tinker with, and never got through a full print. Save up for an original, and save yourself the frustration.
(Edited) Printrbot ceramic hotend? What were you printing and at what temp?
Yes, ABS at 225C since at 230C it as making ‘dandruff’ in my prints.
ABS should be printed on a heated bed with glue stick or extra hold hair spray. If you do not have a hetedbed, perhaps ABS juice on a cold bed will work, but I am not sure.
Ouch, blue tape doesn’t work well with ABS. It looks like a hearing aid exploded. I guess glue stick might be worth trying. I would suggest going down to PLA and when you get good at that, look at PETG. ABS just isn’t home-friendly and requires more equipment and practice to do well.
hoped you kept the plastic "its a work of art henry moore would be proud, and gogh ears just striking from randomness…
for $75 you could get every type of clone on the market to experiment with,may have too spend $12 and replace the heatbreak.
want leave a bitter taste if it fails like that.
@Jeff_DeMaagd actually I am familiar with both and have had better success on glass for ABS but the printer has a Z probe so no glass for me. I will likely switch to PLA to accomodate this customer and tell him ABS is buh bye. I tried ABS right on the metal plate (had to recalibrate Z). What a pain. Despite the glue stick it stuck moderately well. PB originally had Kapton which ended up tearing.
@jinx_OI agreed, but the work of art went i to the vertical rectangular filing cabinet
@Aric_Norine I have had success with various kinds of tape including blue tape but yes not for large flat surfaces. I won’t be doing that again. Nonetheless, I am switching to PLA, as it is far more error friendly and I make lots of errors.
@Samer_Najia you in the US? I have a couple Ubis hotends lying around from our builds last year. It’ll be used but I’ll send you one if you’re in country.
@Griffin_Paquette yessir, DC area. 22310. Cost?
No worries. It’s on me. Just shoot me your address and I’ll get it sent out. contact@letsprintthat.com
@Griffin_Paquette
This is one of the reasons why I love this community!
@Griffin_Paquette thank you very much. I have similarly done stuff like this on G+ and on Thingiverse. This is the sort of thing that reminds us that we all should always pay it forward. Not a pious person myself, but do unto others and all that…again, my sincerest thanks.
@Carlton_Dodd I can’t thank this community enough. People are so helpful and generous.
@Samer_Najia no problem! Love to pass along the help.
Hey, in response to the z-probe. It’s pretty easy to remove the z-probe and install springs under four longer bed-bolts to convert it into manually leveled. I did this a few months ago to my simple metal and have been pretty happy with the results.