Here’s the thermistor screwed into the 3mm hole on the e3d block.
So far so good. Since changing my gears going to change my e steps. Will start printing soon with this. On marlin the temp is spot on at room temp with my bed temp.
After doing a test print:
Print set at 200
Fluctuating to 210 down to 195.
Edit:
Not for sure 100% if the thermistor setting is correct for this.
Have you retuned your PID settings?
Nope not yet
May want to try that because of some of the new thermal properties of that stud thermistor; retuning may give you more stable temperature regulation and all
K. Will give that a try. I pid tuned for the e3d thermistor but not this one.
Magic Numbers with this pla is 225 first, 220 after with fan on. Tomorrow will see what’ll do with the corexy mounts.
Brand and part number for the therm?
@Zane_Mitchell What is the advantage of this one over the original e3d thermistor?
Maybe easier to install? Maybe it might have better thermal contact with the block, but that might be a stretch.
Last I looked, it has a negative effect on available temperature range because of the epoxy they use isn’t rated for as high of a temperature as the stock thermistor.
The thermistor is enclosed epoxied inside s brass 3mm fitting. I posted the link for it from eBay. Did some test prints and need to fine tune the extrusion width on the infil. The wades gears I printed won’t quite line up (hobbed part with filament). The result was a jam during the early morning. So atm have another wade gear printing.
@Jeff_DeMaagd I’ve been using this thermistor with my e3dV6 since day one (about 5 months now). The biggest advantage for me is that it is impossible to short the leads to the hole and it can be removed multiple times with no damage or need to re-do the PID tune. Also no reflash needed to the firmware. I’ve had mine very hot - I don’t recall the exact temperature; but, I followed the e3dV6 tightening procedure that called for the nozzle to be heated well beyond ABS temperature.
@Zane_Mitchell did you reflash the firmware for this thermistor? I think it is the same as the original IAP thermistor.
Yes I uploaded new pid tune into marlin last night
You don’t have to redo the PID tune, but I think it’s worth redoing as you’ll improve your response, and most likely get better thermal behavior than you had ever before once it’s retuned.
I did. In fact the temp swayed maybe 5c compared to 20c before doing it.
I was referring to the thermocouple type. The stock IAP thermistor and the e3dV6 are different types (different performance curves) and are selected in the firmware. If you use the wrong curve, your temps wil not be accurate. Regarding the PID tuning - once tuned, your hotend should hold +/- 1C not 5 or 10…
I got it dialed in…
The thermocouple type is like the epcos. Type 1 iirc.
Also be aware the epoxy in this is only rated to 260C