Hey everyone. Question, I have a cylindrical part that has 90deg overhangs throughout,

Hey everyone. Question, I have a cylindrical part that has 90deg overhangs throughout, that I printed however the over hangs are not coming out crisp. What’s the best way to support 90deg overhangs without having stringyness between supports and object?

Are we talking bridges here? (a span that’s anchored at both ends?) or 90 degree overhangs out into mid air? Have a picture or link to the part?

Need a picture to get a better…image

Autodesk meshmixer. Free program. Part of their suite of free 3d programs. Autodesk 123d programs are really great free software solutions for 3d modeling, sculpting, editing, etc.

Meshmixer specifically, let’s you create or generate your own custom supports for your files to print. It will also suggest places/fully help you generate supports for files.

Check it out !!

My fault for not adding a photo. Here is a link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-RWdfGcPOLnVElraVpuMU0tQWs

@ThantiK the overhang is out in mid air and spans 360 degrees.

Now I tried mesh mixer with this however I didn’t like it. The branches took forever to print and some would fall off because it didn’t adhere to the print well. I tried something different and used slic3rs support setting and played with the interface setting to get the support as close as possible however the layer gap between the support and solid layer (part that you want) I couldn’t get right. When done the support would pull off some of the layer I did want when removing or when the layer that starts the solid layer that you want would be stringy on the first and second layer and then continue nicely on the third layer assuming we are saying the first layer is the layer after the support material is printed and done.

I’m not sure this has to do with the interface gap between the support material and the part to be printed.

Support on? With parts like that you either need to have really nice supports (simplify 3D) or design it in two parts. I usually do the latter of the two

Please note the original part is a little more complicated with more cylindrical platforms in between the top and bottom. Think about a heat sink and how a heat sink has multiple fins in between Essentially each fin would have to be printed.

The link I provided though is the general shape. I would breakup the part however this part is fairly big and I would like to keep it as one part if possible.

I’d probably make an integrated support piece as part of the model. Create a hollow cylinder that’s only like 2-3mm thick and place it 1-layer away from the top and bottom of the part. Then leave a small cut in the cylinder to allow you to get a screwdriver in there and pry the shape off.

Here’s a cutaway of what I’m talking about: https://sli.mg/m0On6K

Thanks for your input on your attempts @CkTBrD ​​

You should try using Cura’s slicing engine instead of Slic3r. I’ve alwayshad better results with Cura over Slic3r. To the point where I only use Cura now. I haven’t used Slic3r in more then a year now. I use Cura to run printing and use its slicer engine for preparing prints.

When a print needs a little extra support or has some really obscure angles. The best you can do is add to the part. Like @ThantiK ​​ suggests, try to add a piece to the part to better its support. Especially where/when you can’t reorient the part to a better position for printing. I try to stay away from and rarely cut a part for printing, unless it is too big for print bed.

I think your best bet here would be to implement a custom part added to the piece to help it out. It happens. And especially here, since even with meshmixer its having a hard time generating a good custom support structure, I would do what @ThantiK ​​ suggests and add a truss of sorts/bar/etc to the part to allow a better print.

Ps. You can always, as he suggested, even simply cut the piece off after its been printed if you don’t want it there once its done! Though I would keep it in my opinion. It adds structural support to the part, and overall would be a better design to have an added piece in the area.

Pss. It ultimately depends though on what you need and/or are trying to achieve for your end result. Certain parts and where they are going to be placed, sometimes do not have the extra space where being placed, to allow for adding to the part.

Perhaps even changing the middle of your design, to remove the overhangs entirely, would help out the most. If you can (if the part’s space would allow), maybe chamfer and/or fillet the middle of your design. Then you would completely alleviate having to support the part while printing!

Eliminating overhangs and the need for additional support is always the best option for a 3d print job. Wether changing the design of your part, or adding to its structure to enhance its design, eliminating overhang entirely is always your best bet.

Though it sometimes this isn’t a valid solution for your parts design, it really is best to really reconsider your approach. Overhang isnt just a problem for parts when it comes to printing. It is also a great indicator of vulnerabilities, or weak areas in the structure of a part!

Hope it works out for you and you achieve your desired piece!!

The problem I see with slicer generated supports is it tends to retract from supports in open air, yielding stringiness. That’s why manually built supports as illustrated aboveboard are still the best way to go.

Thank you guys for your hasty reply. Awesome to bounce ideas off each other.

I’ll definitely look into adding built in supports in the model as @ThantiK suggested.

@David_Wille your detailed response is much appreciated.