Hi all,
Any idea what can cause such issues with ABS ?
The corners are always wrapping but the rest adhere very strongly on the glass … And it happens on the 4 corners…
Strangely, after 5mm heigh, all layers are perfect
(I tried with 3dlac and kapton, same results. Bed is at 110C, ABS at 230C).
Could it be a temperature issue with the black ABS ?
You probably need a heated bed - or a higher temperature on the heated bed. Warping starts to occur at corners - so I believe this is normal.
BTW - what setup are you using to get the multicolored print?
@Dushyant_Ahuja the bed is heated at 110°C.
I use a flashforge creator pro. It has dual extruder
In that case, it might be the ambient temperature. 
this looks like too hot heated bed and not hot enough hotend temp.
Yep, bed is too hot. The bottom ~5mm of the print isn’t fully solidifying, so thermal contraction is wrecking your corners. You can drop the bed temp to 95-100C or add a very small amount of airflow to help cool the print just a little.
Thanks, I’ll try to increase the temperature of abs and low down the one of the bed to 80… I’ll post an update
Try a brim of 5-10mm. Some people just put circular brims around their corners. I use 100C bed temperature and usually like hairspray. Black ABS will have different heat properties than lighter colored ABS. Black requires alot of coloring to make it darker than gray. The coloring and filler material that some filament makers use affects thermal properties. I recommend tuning the black and the nonblack color temperatures seperately.
@Nathan_Walkner check the second picture, that’s definitely not your typical thermal contraction warping lifting the corner off the bed. The only way the corner can have that kind of insane elf-shoes curl is if it’s not cooling solid. Ergo, bed too hot. Mickey Mouse ears may still help though.
I’m quite sure because this EXACT issue is super common on the FlashForge Google Group. Lowering the bed temp or adding airflow fixes it. With the way this specific FlashForge build plate thermistor reads, 110C is simply too hot for ABS. That’s a hardware-specific thing.
Are you using a fan or have a heat break cooling fan causing a draft below your hotend? If it is a draft from cooling your heat break, try a piece of aluminum foil for draft protection.
I kind of think he has a partial nozzleblock that led him to print at higher temps. 230C seems a bit high for extruding. 218C hotends and 100C beds are more of what I would expect. Add on brims with those temps and no drafts on the part and I think the printing should be good after clearing the nozzle properly. Harbor Freight has a set of drill bits that includes one perfect for clearing nozzles. You could use the non-drilling end if you want to not drill or scratch anything. If nothing else, the bit will be stiff enough to push the clog out.
Pretty sure I’m the only person commenting here who is actually familiar with the printer we’re talking about…
@Benjamin_Santalucia let us know what ends up working for you
@Ryan_Carlyle I know I am not familiar with that printer. I am just familiar with the issues that I mentioned.
@NathanielStenzel @Ryan_Carlyle do not fight 
I will do some extra tests taking into account advice from both of you. I’ll keep you posted with the outcome (probably next weekend as I won’t have time to try during the week.). BTW: the manufacturer of the filament told me the temperature range is between 230°C and 240°C, thus my try at 230. I did some try at 220 but that wasn’t helping.
@Benjamin_Santalucia no fighting here.
@Benjamin_Santalucia I am not used to filament with that high of a recommended range. I really do not know what to think of that.
@NathanielStenzel filament is from REAL (a dutch brand). I was also surprised…
Oh well, we all agree that mickey mouse ears might help, so that or full brim might be good.
Try laying down the first few layers. The heat in the base is to have it stick to the bottom. Then stop printing and let the base cool. Continue printing after base has cooled.
Filament can also be produced with a lot of stretching. On heating it will act as a spring. Heat a small piece in the oven(150 degC) and see if it significantly shrinks. Some annealing might be necessary if this is the case.
