Hi Everyone - I just got my K40 in today with the standard M2 boards. I’ve been trying to set it up but cannot seem to connect properly.
Here’s what I’ve done:
All of the hardware is set up
The USB cable is plugged into my computer
The gold USB dongle is plugged in and flashing green
My computer:
Windows 10 (64-bit)
From the other threads it looks like the encryption USB is working well because LaserDRW 2013.02 opens properly when it is inserted. I have entered all of the machine settings including the Device ID. When I click on “Starting”, “Preview” or try to jog the laser cutting head nothing happens.
I found the drivers. On the 64-bit computer they wouldn’t install properly but I found and set up a 32-bit computer and they installed. Still not having any luck controlling the cutter though!
When I plug it in nothing pops up. Is it possible that it’s a bad PCB? All of the buttons on the cutter work manually.
@3D_Laser I just went through the connections and everything seems good.
@Nedman Thanks for the link! I have CorelLaser installed and on the software side it looks like it’s working but I still can’t get a connection through to the board.
Correct! When I open CorelLaser it then opens CorelDraw and shows the small laser cutting menu on the top right where you can configure your cutter, start an engraving, etc.
Ok, one more idea. On my machine I have a machine switch which energize the machine but a separate power switch for the control board. Do you have something similar? The front of my machine looks like this. If the red power switch on the bottom right is off it will not home sort of like what you are saying.
That’s what I’m starting to think as well. I just brought out the multimeter and it doesn’t look like any power is coming out from the power supply so that could be my issue too.
While you dig into the power side, you should also check the Machine setting for the model not just the board ID (the 16 character alphanumeric from the board). Make sure the model is set to the entry that has “-M2” in it. Should be only one.
Also I run mine off a Win10 64bit PC without any issue so you should not need the 32 bit machine. Get LaserDRW to work first before moving to CorelLaser as it’s the shortest path to the machine. If that doesn’t work Corel won’t either because they use the same driver code.
When you start LaserDRW make sure it tells you it’s authorized on the splash screen. Otherwise the USB may not be communicating. I had to get a different non-prerelease hub to make mine work even though the powered one in theory should have been a better option.