Hi everyone ! Looking for advice on eliminating warping/liftup of large,

3D Printing
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Hi everyone !

Looking for advice on eliminating warping/liftup of large, flat parts:
This is for printing multiple sets of 3DR delta reprap parts (by +Richard Horne )

  • PLA on an Ultimaker , on blue tape
  • the parts seem to lift up close to or at the edges of the blue masking tape (the parts stick well to the tape, but the tape itself with the part lifts up)

Perhaps some wider masking tape can help ? (if so, if anyone has a good source for very wide blue tape in Europe I would be thankful).
If there is some other method (other than heated bed of course) , I would love to hear it :slight_smile:

Thanks in advance !

2

Put a 10mm brim on it with your slicer :slight_smile:

3

I used glue stick for printing PLA on top of glass bed with kapton tape.

FYI - No heated bed.

It worked even without brim

4

And use Brim. This also helps when your tape lifts from platform (clean platform with e.g. alcohol before taping it).

5

I use abraded Kapton tape on glass and a brim, I regularly print items 200x150x150 with filleted bases and this is the only way I’ve found to keep them down.

On particularly difficult prints, I print 0.5mm high 20mm circular pads (some call them bunny ears) on the corners of the model, pause the print once the pads are printed and kapton tape the pads down before resuming the print. It’s a pain, but it works well!

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+1 to glue stick (also as always, check the tram :slight_smile:

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@Jesper_Lindeberg ooh ! thanks I totally forgot about brim ! I deactivated it a while back as it was taking ages, but it might just do the trick !

@Mohamed_Thalib_H thanks ! That would be good, unfortunatly , glass panes the right size are very expensive, but I might give that a try on my reprap (which already has a glass bed :slight_smile:

@Marcus_Guin_Klutmann good catch ! I have not cleaned the platform in a while, that might help as well :slight_smile:

@Mark_Durbin even if it sounds clunky, the trick with the circular pads might help as well , and could potentially use a lot less plastic / require less cleanup: thanks !
Do you use “sticky” Kapton tape ? (if that even exists ?) Way back with my first reprap I always printed with kapton, but I have some very bad memories of it :slight_smile:

@Jason_Gullickson thanks :slight_smile:

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@Mark_Moissette_ckaos Just normal Kapton tape, I have some nice wide stuff, I use a nylon scouring pad to abrade it slightly and clean it with isopropanol. it lasts for weeks.

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What qualifies as wide blue tape in your book? I use 5cm wide one I found after much searching at voelkner (dunno if they deliver to france though in an affordable way)

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I’ve used as little as 2mm brim with a lot of success lately but average 6mm with 100% success rate.

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Also, I haven’t checked but maybe @Marcus_Alexander_Lin has some over on http://Manupool.de

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after you’ve applied the blue tape, but the glass in the oven on low for a bit. this seems to help set the adhesive on the tape to the glass after it’s cooled.

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@foosel I still use the stock 2cm wide tape:-D I could swear I saw someone post a link to a 15 cm (!!) Wide tape a few months back.

@Jason_Ray thanks for the precise settings, will come in handy :slight_smile:
I will check manupool too!

@Jonathan_se5a_Sorens oooh good trick ! Thanks !
( edit : damn forgot our oven is fried)

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@Mark_Moissette_ckaos try a hair dryer or heat gun to replace the oven

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@Mark_Moissette_ckaos make sure to use hexagon fill if you don’t already, this gives more strain relief for contraction. Rectilinear fill always rips my part corners off the bed