Hi Guys, I just assembled my Ares and start having fun printing stuffs. However, after several prints, the blue tape attached on the glass plate is gradually tearing out. Have you guys tried to replace the tape (3M 2090 or other brand? cause 3M is a bit costly. ) or use solid glue stick instead? Thanks for your experience!
Yes, I have tried both off-brand blue tapes and glues - glue sticks, hairspray. (There is a lengthy thread in the EasyArts forum that chronicled my struggle with adhesion, especially on bare glass. I refuse to pay 3M tax. I even tried to use plain white paper (Sign in - Google Accounts) before finally buying store brand blue tapes from Harbor Freight Tools. The HFT tapes are less resistant to shear, and seems to yield to heat so it sticks too strongly to the first layer. This solves the adhesion problem a little too well, so after every print - or at least after a print of large bottom surface, I have to apply tapes. Some suggest using glue/hairspray on tapes. It works to an extent but when printing larger prints, the tapes are still prone to tear. (In my latest build, I didn’t apply any glue at all. You can see how the tape is torn: Sign in - Google Accounts) A small price to pay for defying 3M.
My tape tore so I decided to try kapton. This too had some tearing issues so I have since gone back to bare glass. I did like using the kapton though. All I had to do was make sure the surface was clean; no glue or hairspray needed.
@Igor_Galvao If warping concerns you, definitely try the cheap blue tapes. Adhesion is so strong. (I just experimented washing with steel wool to remove residue tapes. Glue can be easily washed away, too.)
@Michael_Coley I read somewhere that Kapton is for ABS on heated bed. There’s one Youtube guy who really love clean glass that he insists on PLA on unheated glass, no glue, not hairspray, just super clean glass. Obviously clean glass has some advantages. I did try on Ares. It worked on 20mm cube occasionally, but too inconsistent. I suspect that the G29 autoprobe won’t work too well when the surface is transparent.
It is important when applying glue stick that you have a very thin layer. I usually apply the stick, in a uniform fashion, around the surface. After that, I take a lint free cloth with some isopropyl alcohol and wipe the bed. The alcohol allows the glue to be spread around more without removing it. This can be done several times, after each print, without having to apply more glue.
Here is an interesting project to try. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:693286
Credit goes to Marrrs
i just finished printing it out. Great design but doesn’t fit the brand of glue stick I’m using.
Ha, 3D print an applicator just for 3D printing:-) Speaking of brand, which one do you use? I just realise that 3D printing is still such a hackery technology that people often speak of general purpose materials but consistency in those materials does not exist.
Very true, I’m using a 3M Scotch brand permanent glue stick. Bought a pack of about 12 for just a few dollars.
Unfortunately, the model I printed didn’t work out so well. The diameter of my glue stick is about 10mm too small. I guess I could reduce the size a bit. Or, I can make a new model.
Yes, hacking is the fun part. There are some very creative minds out there.
General purpose materials. This is so true. Everyone nowadays has a do it yourself mentality. Why should I pay XX dollars for your method when I can duplicate it myself. And, share my idea with others 
You will find this to be true with just about everything related to 3D printers, CNC’s, Lasers and general electronic projects.