Hi guys, my stupid question time again but..

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Hi guys, my stupid question time again but… Where do i get solder? and which kind? i’ve been using the one that came with my radioshack soldering iron (bc it works great ad was included free) )but i have no clue which one to buy. FYI i’ve used plumbing solder in the past (it worked thou :/) blindly which is why im asking.

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63/37, can’t tell you where to buy it - I get mine from Taiwan.

63/37 is 63% tin, 37% lead. I would get two sizes - 0.5mm and 0.8/1.0mm. Ebay’s probably a good place to look, but if you need some in a hurry, don’t you have electronics shops?

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ok thanks, what exactly does 63/37 mean thou?

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5meter-0-8mm-Tin-Lead-Rosin-Core-Solder-Wire-Tube-63-37-11g-Flux-2-0-/371020314747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item566288b87b OR http://www.ebay.com/itm/63-37-Tin-Lead-Melt-Rosin-Core-Flux-1-8-Soldering-Solder-Wire-50g-4-Sizes-TN2F-/291215697340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43cdcee5bc Any good?

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63/37 fully explained here, as well as some other great soldering info.

Don’t buy cheap solder!

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You need to buy electrical solder that has a rosin core(s). This contains a chemical to clean the surfaces while it is being soldered to make a good joint. This is the brown ‘glassy’ residue left when you make a joint. Without it you will have problems.

Next is diameter of the solder. The smaller the diameter, the better control you have with small joints. 0.8mm to 1.2mm is good for most PCB work. Use a larger size for larger joints (eg with big wires), otherwise you probably won’t be able to feed it in fast enough. You may need 0.6mm to re-work SMD stuff.

Composition: You now should not be using any solder that is lead based. Most electronic components and boards are now lead free. Lead is a heavy metal and has disposal restrictions. You really should not be touching the stuff. As you solder you will inhale lead fumes and also touch it with your hand and ingest it. Lead affects the brain and causes other neurological side effects (especially children). And there is really no reason these days to use leaded solders, other than they are sometimes cheaper. Use it only on equipment made before about 1995., using gloves and a suitable fume extractor.

But lead solders do not work well with lead-free pre-tinned components, boards and wires (virtually everything these days due to lead regulations in most countries). The lead contaminates the joint and affects its life. Not to mention the little grey cells of whom ever is using it. The early lead free was pretty rubbish, but most of the issues (like paste stages and melting points) have been resolved. The only real issue is that it normally has a slightly higher melting point, so you may need to up the tip temperature of your iron by 20C to 50C to compensate and get a better flow of the joint. Usual thing: RTFM for the solder and your iron.

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“Where lead containing solders are used, the risk from lead is very low. This may seem strange given the high percentage of the metal in the solder. However, soldering is usually carried out at a temperature of around 380 C and significant lead fume is only evolved at temperatures above 450 C. So exposure by inhalation is normally insignificant. This is recognised in the Approved Code of Practice (ACoP) supporting the Control of Lead at Work Regulations 2002 (CLAW). Table 2 in the ACoP (reproduced below) lists processes which are not liable to result in significant exposure to lead. This list includes “Low-temperature melting of lead (below 500°C)” during soldering.”

The real issue with soldering is the fume produced by the flux – usually containing colophony (also known as rosin), which is manufactured from pine resin, and is usually contained within the soldering wire (rosin cored solder), although liquid fluxes are also used in some cases. The flux is needed to prevent oxidation of components, remove contaminants from the surface of the components, and reduce the surface tension of the molten solder. When heated during soldering it vapourises and condenses into fine particles, which form the fume which is usually clearly visible as a white smoke. Thermal degradation of the colophony also generates irritant gases.

“Rosin cored solder fume is a well established respiratory sensitiser, and is one of the main causes of occupational asthma in Great Britain. Colophony fume is generated at temperatures above about 180 C, well below the temperatures associated with soft soldering. So significant concentrations can be evolved. The higher the temperature, the more fume is generated. The lead free solders introduced since the Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive was implemented in 2006 tend to have higher melting points than the traditional lead:tin types. So, ironically, the elimination of lead for environmental reasons has led to a potential for increased exposures to a potent asthmagen in the workplace.”

There is a much bigger risk from the flux used with lead-free solder than from the lead in soft solder.

Sorry, your scary post is just not supported by the facts.

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That’s really good to know. Thanks.now I know the smoke from the RadioShack solder is bad for me. :frowning:

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umm, im a little confused now, the video (and one of you) is saying to use 63/33 solder while the other guy is saying to use lead free solder. So what do i buy? 67/33 or lead free solder? @Adam_Sharp @Mike_Thornbury

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For me personally… since I’m not doing hundreds of hours of soldering, I don’t eat finger foods while soldering, avoid licking my solder spool and soldering iron, and try to remember to wash my hands when done, I haven’t worried about using the 67/33 lead solder. I also use a little bench top solder smoke absorber so the smoke is more controlled. Something like this:

If there are kids around your work area, you’re doing a ton of soldering, exporting your products to countries that require lead free solder to be used, then you might feel more comfortable or have a definite reason to use lead free solder. Use whatever is reasonable and works for you and what you’re trying to achieve I say. Do avoid the smoke though. :slight_smile:

Full disclosure: I personally have never used lead free solder so have no experience if it’s easier to work with or not. It wasn’t what was in dad’s work shop when I learned to solder. I bought a large spool of 67/33 years ago and since I’ve yet to use that spool up I haven’t looked at getting anything else.

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ok, so i’ll just get this stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5meter-0-8mm-Tin-Lead-Rosin-Core-Solder-Wire-Tube-63-37-11g-Flux-2-0-/371020314747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item566288b87b

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If you need it soon, and want some assurance as to it being good, I would recommend SparkFun:

Generally leaded solder is easier to work with (works at a lower temp and “wets” the parts you’re soldering easier).

Even though these solders have flux in them, you’ll find it nice to have extra flux. Flux basically cleans the parts being soldered, making them take solder easier. I like flux pens like:

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I agree with Tod. Spend a few dollars more and don’t risk buying cheep solder.

Also, check the diameter of whatever you buy. .031" (~8mm) or .025" (~6mm) is good for smaller hand soldered electronics projects.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8N1QI/ (.025")
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004258YDE/ (.032")

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@Michal_Hipner Don’t buy that - a) it’s tiny. b) it’s way over-priced c) its really nasty solder.

DO what Kurt said and buy it from a good US source like Adafruit or Sparkfun and get 100gm+ - it will last you for ages.