Hmm, I wonder if this has anything to do with my endstop not registering 
@Thomas_Sanladerer @Richard_Turnock @ThantiK
I flipped the Rumba over after noticing that one pin was shorter than the rest, it looks like the board has more than one cold joint, but thankfully the pads are intact.
I’d like to point out that I have been in no way abusive to this board and have never used it until the last few weeks.
It looks like the z pin has a cold joint too, I’ll re-solder all the pins to be safe though. Hopefully this will be the end of this problem.
Looks like it to me. Just solder it back, unless the copper lifted from the board.
@ThantiK apparently I did wire it wrong, by connecting the motors to their corresponding drivers? I think this must be a problem in the firmware, the x axis endstop stops the y axis from moving, and I can bet that the rest of the axis are screwed up as well.
@Nuker_Bot_NukerBot_3 , the pads were still intact, thankfully the soldering job was so crappy that it perfectly detached from the board (if it was ever attached)
Damn. I had to solder some of these boards from China they aren’t all created equal. Sometimes the metal traces on the boards lift up then you are screwed. Clean the solder off and flux paste the 2 areas this should make a better bond.
The closer I look at your picture, it seems you may have separated the metal contact that brings the power to the board from that hole.
I had thought that reprapdiscount had fairly good quality control in place, but after browsing a bit it seems like they’re lacking when it comes to products they design.
hopefully you will be able to fix it. You might also be able to do a software hack with the firmware to tell marlin to use another endstop for this axis.
that’s what I’m about to try, I switched pins for xmin with ymax as it doesn’t seem to register. hopefully it’ll work!
These boards really had a bad solder job done. I also had to go over mine and make repairs, and remove the solder from the mounting holes…
Just ask @Tim_Rastall how he feels about these boards.
Testing is one of the expensive bits of electronics production. So do not be surprised if you get lower quality if you pay less.
But in general, the RepRapDiscount stuff is decent for the price I think. I’m not seeing test pads, so I do not think the boards are actually tested.
And just look up the blue Ultimaker clone boards, those are really horrible.
I have 3 rumba boards, they all have faults. I suggest you save yourself a lot of wasted time and by a higher quality board.
@Tim_Rastall , I will definitely for my next build, thankfully this was servicable, I’m mildly worried about how the ATMEGA2560 heats up while running, if it continues to do so I’ll probably replace it with an equivalent Azteeg board.
@Daid_Braam I payed 150 for the board, which is less than what I would have been able to get comparable board at the time. Obviously the price on these boards has gone down a fair bit, which can probably be related to the the quality of the product.
I have to second the response from @Tim_Rastall . I had issues with the rumba board and contact with reprapdiscount went to the void.
@Tim_Rastall Do you mean a higher quality RUMBA board from a different supplier, or a completely different type of board?
@Ben_Jackson Different type of board - I believe the RUMBA is only manufactured by Reprapdiscount. Putting aside the faults I’ve encountered, it has a number of critical issues like those tiny mosfets and stepper headers that don’t allow their own DVR8825 to fit.
