How Easy/Hard is it to fit Honeycomb cells in the K40?
Had a hunt on Youtube for a guide but nothing popped up, is it a simple upgrade to just slap in a 300x200mm Honeycomb bed, or do you need to fabricate a whole bracket to hold it in place?
Depends on the honeycomb you get, most are just a sheet with no brackets. If you want to save a buck, cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit and drive in 17 guage 1" or 1 1/4" brads in a 1" grid.
Works great. So does the diamond shaped expanded metal.
As far as height/focus goes, most people just make up a shim set to go under the board or honeycomb.
If you go for an air assist, I recommend the Saite cutter rectangular one, it has an integral focus adjustment built in. (uses bigger lenses too) The downside to it is it takes some work to install - you have to open up the hole in the carriage and then shim it to get it adjusted.
The BIG up is you can focus within 1/2" range or so without moving your bed.
There’s dozens of options, shop around good before you buy, everybody’s different and different setups will suit them. Maybe you never move the bed because you always cut the same thickness? then a power bed adjust is a waste (which it kind of IS in a K40)
I’d start with the nailboard, then decide if the $40-$50 for a honeycomb will do a better job for you.
Scott
Thank you Scott, the advice is much appreciated, could you possibly link me to the Saite cutter rectangular one?
That’s just the head. You can get kits from them that include the lens and/or a red laser sight attachment.
The lens to fit it is 18mm 50.8 focal length (stock).
They have a great deal on the full optics set with the 3 mirrors (Molybendum which is the most durable and best for the k40 imo), and the lens which will fit the adapter. I use the standard lenses, the “better” ones are +10 bucks, may be worth it, but I’ve not bought one yet.
That stuff is probably the best upgrade bang for your buck, and only the tip of the iceberg.
The free upgrade it aligning it perfect.
Main thing with a new K40 is lining up the optics, here is a time saver.
http://www.floatingwombat.me.uk/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/K40-Alignment-Instructions.pdf
And good background info:
http://www.ophiropt.com/
@Scott_Marshall Thank you so much for taking the time to help! that PDF is excellent.
Here is a link to pics of how I made my manual bed https://plus.google.com/photos/104696927629289302865
It is in the December photos
@funinthefalls Thanks Anthony, that has given me a good idea of what is involved (how easy is it to get to the adjustment knobs under the bed), I’m thinking of moving the knobs to the top of the bed, and using compression spring around the 4 threaded rods, a little like a over sized Prusa i3 3D printer bed?
I just remove the top honeycomb layer to adjust the knobs, I have marked my most used settings with a black sharpie on the threaded rod, but I like your spring loaded idea, I will give it a try and see how it works.
I also use strong rare earth magnets on the bottom frame to hold it in place. I am in the process of designing a stepper motor add on to make it easier to set the height, was going to prototype it with some 3d printed GT2 pulleys, and an old nema 17 motor I have laying around. My issue right now is figuring out how to join the belt into a continuous loop, hope someone on here knows how to do it.
@Scott_Marshall Hello Scott, was just looking at the Saite cutter heads you recommended, and was wondering if I got the one with the “Integrative Mount” I could just switch out the mounts saving the need to bore out and shim?
I’m not sure which one yo mean by “integrative mount” (Integrated Mount maybe is what they mean?) It isn’t that anyway, it comes with a mount, but it’s sure NOT integrated. Chalk it up to bad translation.
The set you linked to supplies the entire carriage, which doesn’t need replacement to fit the head. The hole in the top plate needs enlarging however, and it appears the set comes with the top plate already bored to fit the new head. Changing the carriage is a fair amount of work and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you 've got experience in this sort of machinery. (and good reason to do so) There’s a lot of adjustments involved, and just getting the belt back in place and tensioned properly has tripped people up. It’s not rocket science, but it’s not as easy as it looks either. Then the endstops need setting. And frankly the whole affair is built so roughly, it’s best left alone if it’s working well.
If you can get a top plate pre-bored or can enlarge the hole in yours, that’s all you really need. some have enough room to open up the hole, others need a new plate made from scratch from what I’ve heard.
I can make you a plate if you run into trouble, I have a little machine shop here.
The hole size is 20mm so measure yours and see if there’s room to open it up without breaking through. If you have the room, 15 minutes with a Dremel and a 1/2" sanding drum, you’ll be all set. (or 1/2hr with a round file)
It’s OK to buy the set, I just wouldn’t change the carriage yet, put it away for future use. Odds are all you’ll ever need from it will be the rollers though.
Edit - PS This is worth reading:
I was just working on a drawing (I think I’m going to offer a mounting plate with a vertical adjustment since I’m looking to make some of my equipment earn it’s keep)
I needed a look at the stock plate (tossed mine as it came in trashed) so I looked over that Carriage/head combo from Saite.
I’m not sure they were paying attention when they put that deal up, because a set of 4 rollers is $13.49. The Head alone is $35.09. $35.09 + 13.49=$48.58
The combo costs $45.89! So buying the combo with the head, mounting plate and Carriage with wheels is $2.69 LESS than just the head and a set of rollers.
They’re PAYING YOU $2.69 to take the mounting plate (which you need) and the loaded Carriage!!!
If I were you , I’d order it while it’s available. You won’t beat that deal.
Remember to order a lens and mirror for the new head, it takes larger optics.
Scott
@Scott_Marshall Thanks Scott, will grab one with the mount at the cheap price!
For lens and mirrors is it the 3 pcs Mo Reflection Mirrors 20mm +1 pc ZnSe Focus Lens 18mm Focal length 50.8mm
They seem to have the exact same kit for $42.29 and $49.99!?!?
You are correct, as far as I can see. Seems there may be a little “one hand doesn’t know what the other is doing” going on at Saite Cutter.
Hey, buy while the low prices are in effect!
They were posting some auctions the last few months and I was able to win them at their starting price, 3 X 20mm MO mirrors for $12.99. Won 4 auctions like this, just received 2 of the packages today.
@funinthefalls Will add them to my watched seller list and try and grab some spares if they do more auctions. thanks for the heads up!
I could not beleive that I won 14 day auctions with the minimum bid.
@Scott_Marshall all ordered! do you happen to remember the inner diameter of the air tube needed for the air assist on this head?
I wouldn’t be surprised if we’re a good share of the business there.
The air tubing is about 6mm or 1/4" . There’s no room to run a cable chain, what seems to work is to anchor the tubing to the rear top lip (where the door closes) and point it toward the right. leave just enough slack so it doesn’t pull tight, but no more, or it can wrap adound the head and bind up the whole works or get in the beam path, which of course destroys it pretty quick.
There’s a place on ebay selling 1 meter length of colored polyurethane tubing for about 2 bucks. The PU is a bit stiffer than standard clear PVC (vinyl) and it seems to work well.
If running from a commercial air compressor, you’ll want a Filter-regulator unit. 1/4", 1/8" if you can get one. Again, ebay - about 10 bucks with gauge and mounting bracket. Shop carefully for the fittings, they can be expensive. Brass has gone up like gold lately.
Scott
@Scott_Marshall Thanks! was thinking of getting a coiled air hose kit with some barbed adapters like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-Air-Tool-Connector-Kit-Coil-Hose-Tyre-Inflator-Blow-Gun-Guage-3T-/370751628131?hash=item565284e363:g:J6gAAOSwiylXBjkL
Hopefully that will make hooking it to my pump a little easier. I went with this 70L/min pump, and if that doesn’t work will reluctantly use my really loud shop compressor: