https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByNecjb0RD-TOF9jYkNJbW5Xc3c
This only works if you remove the POT from the front panel… and is considered a single wire control. The TH4- connection is just holding the laser fire pin the GND. The PSU activates the laser and controls the intensity by PWM. I’m not sure how good that is for safety but the operation is fine.
Disclaimer:
This is what I have done to my machine, I have no idea if it will work on your machine and advise to use this information at your own risk
Weird. With my LPS, if I connect TH4 to that pin (What I’ve been calling L), my laser continuously fires. I flashed the latest non-edge firmware and updated my config to reflect the new pins but still no luck.
So David, is your power supply different (pin out) than the one in the “SmoothK40” guide? http://smoothieware.org/blue-box-guide
Also, how did you come to the decision to use those particular pins (1.23 vs 2.5 for instance)?
@Alex_Hodge I believe the pinout is almost the same. It looks like the 5V and ground pins may be opposite.
for your second question, that’s tough. After utilizing some fire water and herbs and a couple nights of deep forum searching I believe I found a post that hinted at such a re-mapping of the pins.
@David_Cook LOL. I hear ya. I think there needs to be an effort put forth by all of us to take pictures of our various power supplies and the pin outs we’ve discovered for each. Imagine how easy this conversion would be if we had proper documentation!
Alex, I’m currently doing research on this very issue… the reason your laser continuously fire is that TH4- is tied to ground.
1.23 for PWM power control is ok… the problem is in the enable pin selected.
I’ll bet a dollar that you’re testing with the POT still in place and feeding the input pin on the LPSU.
I’m checking into this as I type this…and I’m trying to see if it’s as simple as switching to the + pin but since 0.26 is an ADC I don’t know if it can be used as a proper switch.
We just might need to go back to 2.5 as proven in previous builds.
@Jon_Bruno Actually, I just ditched TH4. Firing with - on P2.5 connected to L (rightmost pin on LPS). That’s the pin the stock board used for firing control. Not sure why we’ve all been trying to use one of the pins from the test fire button all this time instead of L. It works great. 1.23 works perfect for PWM though. OH, also you owe me a dollar ditched the pot when I got my smoothie installed.
It appears that in my setup I am really only using the PWM pin to fire the laser AND control it’s intensity. I have no idea how I even ended up plugging into TH4 :-/ my TH4- connection is simply enabling the laser to be able to be turned on by the PWM pin.
@Jon_Bruno I left it installed…I’m not an electrical engineer but seeing as how I’m on the -, I would think it should be okay. Maybe not? I suppose I should break out my multimeter…
M3 M5 controls the enable pin as per the config but Im not a g-code guru so I’m not sure… I do know however that it was able to properly control the enable pin with 2.5^ and manually sending M3/M5 resulted in proper operation as well. but more importantly, the pin is in the expected state when idle.
@David_Cook this is what mine says…
switch.laserfire.enable true #
switch.laserfire.output_pin 2.5^ #
switch.laserfire.output_type digital #
switch.laserfire.input_on_command M3 # fire laser
switch.laserfire.input_off_command M5 # laser off
I suppose… but my gcodes from laser web do not have m3 or m5 in them. So I’m not sure how that actually works. I think m3)m5 is more for grbl or Marlin. Not sure. I just know I don’t use them
