I am new to deltas and mine is not performing up to what I think it should. I only get decent prints at 25-35mm/sec. And don’t get me started on Benchy! The hull always looks like crap. I have printed (pic attached) the hollow pyramid. I have the retraction currently set to 3.5mm at 450mm/sec. I am hoping to improve the angled sides. I think they should be smoother. And I should be able to get better quality at a faster speed…
The .1mm prints top layer, I had the infill too low on one and not enough top layers on the other.
Looking for some suggestions. I even included the EEprom settings.
There’s usually no point in setting retraction over 50-100mm/s or so, because the extruder won’t accelerate up any faster than that before it’s time to slow back down again. With your E-axis acceleration of 1000mm/s^2, it’s not going to get up any faster than ~50mm/s in 3.5mm.
The bumps on the flat section mean you need more print cooling and/or need to print with more roof layers.
The condition of the pyramid overhangs and roundness of the top point also suggests more cooling is required.
The stringiness is going to come down to a combination of print temp, bowden configuration, and retraction settings. Have you tried slightly lower printing temps? Try dropping 5C increments to see if it helps. Is there any slop at your bowden tube couplings? They need to be tight. How long is your bowden tube? Try to keep it as short as possible.
I’m not sure if it would help with a deltas as I haven’t haven the problem on one, but for my other printers to get rid if the stringing I slowly increase my travel move speed until it goes away. Typically around 135 this is the guide I used https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing
Hi Keith, it’s been awhile…
What slicer you using these days? Because I’ve moved over to S3D and the ‘coast at end’ function really does help with print quality.
drop temp, bump up minimum layer time. to 10 seconds. the bed of the point 2mm at 35mmps is looking good. whats your transition speed when not printing?
210C is not an unusual temp for PLA. I normally print PLA at 205-215C depending on the exact hot end and filament manufacturer. BUT IT ALL DEPENDS ON THERMISTOR CALIBRATION. If you select the wrong thermistor table, you could print PLA at 250C, and that would be fine, as long as it gives you good results.
@Ryan_Carlyle That’s exactly why mfg.s give a range. Thermistors are not exact and how each hotend is put together, can determine the best temps. That’s why I use a tower. I usually vary the temps ±5C depending on speed.
I went back to my original mfg. Settings. I shortened the bowden tube 6 inches. Reset my retraction settings 3.5mm at 50mm/s. Lowered the bed temp to 45C. I am now getting much better prints at 65 mm/s. Not perfect, but better. I would say as good as the 30mm/s prints with no stringing either.
