I got an achievement: completed #3dprinter build without cracking #makibox acrylic. Did some tuning and the test cube came out near perfect in the first try I was surprised, but I’m happy. A few photos are posted below, I’ll add more print photos when I got time. This is my first ever printer so please bear that in mind and forget any rookie photo journalism mistakes here.
Some things to note #3dprinting friends, if you ordered the acrylic versions be wary of the pressure applied to the acrylic when using the m4 screws. That being said, I still think that the makibox can benefit from some nuts as backing instead of plastic alone. Also on the note of acrylics, the panels are a couple mm off in a few places. Especially the top panel. I just had to leave a screw out because it would not fit at all.
I had to pre tap a few of the gray connecting plastic components as well to avoid a cracking issue. I’m glad for this on the hot bed as when I make leveling changes they seem to stick. Every where else maybe not so much.
Finally testing, I followed the tuning videos as closely as possible and the first print came out nice. I did put the spool an a stack of CDs tho. Make it easier to get to the filament feed hole. Also it looks like the trimpots were tuned at the factory for mine were spot on or just slightly higher. After getting .01mm test cube in my hand I was very very surprised at the quality. @Jonathan_Buford1 I certainly got my money’s worth and congratulate you and the rest if #makible on a job well done.
@Imko_Beckhoven_van yea, thanks for reminding me. When screwing into any support the trick is to use light. Tighten the screws just until the surface of the acrylic deforms the light around the screw then back off just slightly. For the on off button a lot of patience. You kind of have to get one side in part way by pushing in the tabs while making sure to align the button right.then pushing in the other side. The whole could do with a SLIGHT filing if u are uncomfortable tho.
If the top holes are not lining up, then you might want to go back and tap the chassis together a bit more. The tabs should be able to bottom out all around, and the holes in the acrylic will line up at that point.
It will function well still as is, so it is up to you if you go back to do this. Yes, with the acrylic, just not crushing it is the way to not crack it. With any of the assembly, a little bit of care will give you good results.
I’m glad you had a good experience with the machine so far.
That usually can be improved with tuning. For the z, it should be as tight as possible without interfering with the movement. The screws on that are much deeper, so can take a higher force.
Generally, the drive blocks you tighten as much as possible, so that the movement is possible, but allows the guide rails to constrain the movement. The hot end you tighten only enough to prevent it from being excessively loose, but you try to reduce the friction as much as possible so that the guide rods it rides on are able to stay square and not dragged by the hot end.
Check to make sure the firmware is up to date, or at least that your PID settings are updated. After that, try setting the temp at 1-2 degrees higher if you are still having trouble.
Although Jonathan sort of mentioned it earlier, id just like to point out again that the grinding may also relate to how tight the screws on the print head/feeder are, as was also pointed out by jnicol on the maxibox forum here: http://makibox.com/forum/message/14433
