I had to jump on the bandwagon. 300mm tall, 0.2mm layers, white abs.

I had to jump on the bandwagon. 300mm tall, 0.2mm layers, white abs. I did some light smoothing using an electric hot plate, a large stock pot, acetone, and holding one half of the print into the vapor at a time then allowing it to harden, flip/repeat.

In retrospect I should have adjusted my layer heights/widths. I lost a few loops on the underside of the belly due to a narrow extrusion width, thicker layer, and the step over rate caused by the overhang angle (seems to be more of an issue as you scale up prints with overhangs and smaller nozzles (0.4mm nozzle). Also my house was cold, so I had some abs splitting. I really have to get this enclosed again. I have the acrylic already from a local surplus house. I just need the time to cut it.

Great model. Beautiful work @Louise_Driggers ​ (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/aria-the-dragon)

Print time, Eric?

10hr, but I set it to slow down at the top. So the last 25% of the model was the majority of the print time.

To be honest if I had gone faster I might have avoided the splitting. I have the best luck in ABS going much faster than I did.

I am still super jealous of @Richard_Horne ​ and his pink version. Those layers are print perfection. I have some new targets to aim for. But since my printer is so large and has such a long rod span, those tolerances will certainly take some long nights of tuning.

@Shauki​ it should be doable, but the lack of thermistor based thermal control in quadrap make those small details tricky (or so I would guess).

@Shauki expensive experience?

@Eclsnowman ​ I expect to shauki is giving you a dig for spending more than $100 on your machine :). And on rich’s layer perfection you mention. I sware you get better layer consistency with a Z axis belted/spectra driven bot. You’re certainly suffering from some Z ribbing by the look of it.

@Tim_Rastall ​ I do fight that, but the odd thing is that it comes and goes. Most of the time lubricating the lead screw makes it go away… For a while.

Also a lot if the ones that look like z-ribbing on upper layers is actually tiny splits in the ABS.

My next bot will have to be 100% belt to test your theory.

Plus this is with $15 per kg ABS from microcenter. I know I should buy better stuff. I just print so much that for the cost it does the job 90% of the time.

You can fix splitting with a heat gun and a steady hand. It causes the abs to swell and repair. Go easy though. Too much heat and it can scorch or bubble. I like the acetone- no shame there! I used to use Chapstick on the z lead screws on my original Printrbot, it reduces wobble on finicky lead screws. Thick grease works too. Both are messy.

@Brook_Drumm I have been meaning to buy a real heat gun. My wife hates me stealing her hair dryer. :wink:

I have used silicone based superlube on the z-screws. A tube costs $8 on Amazon. The stuff goes a long way.

I like the acetone look to. If not for the z-ribbing and cracking it can look like porcelain with white abs when you do it right.

Here is my snowman army of ornaments for the family using similar methods: http://i.imgur.com/9GSoHws.jpg

I thought this was glazed ceramic when I first saw it. Love the effect.

Acetone treated ABS looks great, wish I could do the same with my PLA prints…

@Tom_Nardi PLA can be sandblasted which gives a similar (matte) effect. http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.co.nz/2014/05/sand-blasting-3d-printed-objects-for.html?m=1