I just swapped my j-head for an e3d v6 and there are a few problems here. I had to increase the tension on the hobbed bolt as high as it would go to get smooth extrusion and that tells me that something is probably wrong. The holes in the 2-wall blower nozzle are interesting. Thoughts?
makerfarm prusa i3
3mm pla @ 210
0.4mm nozzle
Are you using the same thermistor? You might have new settings. Also you should really use the fan that came with it. That large one probably doesn’t have enough airflow to cool it down.
Like @Benjamin_Engel you probably have to change the pid values in your firmwarw
@Benjamin_Engel @Griffin_Paquette , same thermistor. Note the kapton holding it on because it doesn’t fit in the designated hole. I did run PID tuning in marlin (RAMPS) and I did tune the max temp up to 250 not knowing what the thermistor’s true max is. I do have a 10k thermistor somewhere so I’ll double check the temp.
Supplied cooling fan is an absolute must. I’m actually swapping it out in my first v6 from over a year ago, I wouldn’t be going through this if it wasn’t critical.
If it doesn’t fit then it might not be getting the right temp. I would say put on a better fan.
Oh yeah didn’t see the last picture of the hotend. With all metal hotends you MUST run a fan and most with a shroud. I have two ubis all metal hotends and they are the same way. You are most likely getting severe heat creep that is making the filament heat up and expand in the peek of the hotend. It happened with my first jhead lite and just having a fan like you have didn’t solve it.
Hm, I’m having a hard time getting a good read from this large glass bead 10k thermistor.
I figured the heatsink stays cool (touchable) so I might be able to get away without more cooling on it. Since it prints, I’ll go ahead and get a crummy shroud out of it and see how that helps.
Was a blue injection moulded shroud not included?
@raykholo they are also sometimes red
@Benjamin_Engel
I’m well aware, I used a red one as the replacement 
But he said v6, not lite, so I said blue as that’s been my experience.
I was cheap and bought the metal parts only. Intended to add the 1$ shroud to the order but forgot…
@Matt_Harrington is it a clone hotend?
PLA? Consider an oiler. At least season it (that will last for a few prints)
I never oil my pla and have zero issues. I don’t think that would be it
@Griffin_Paquette nope. I did do something stupid tho. I retracted too far and got PLA stuck in the heat sink. Used a hot air gun and some scrap PLA to clear it out. Maybe that is a problem but it doesn’t seem worse now than before. Also, I only tightened at 240c not knowing the tolerance on this thermistor.
I have http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723 hooked up with a higher volume fan with no improvement. It is hard to tell if there is any airflow. I think it might have worked better without the duct. Thoughts?
Is the fan going the right direction?
Ok I reported back too early. It is improved and I just got the best print since switching hotends and possibly since before, but I did still need to tighten the idler down on the hobbed bolt all the way. Could it just be that 3mm filament is harder to heat when heat does not creep up into the cold side?
@Matt_Harrington It’s because you aren’t using the correct barrel cooling mechanism. It is absolutely essential to use not only the provided fan but the shroud designed for it as well. The v6 all metal uses the fan and shroud as an integral part of the design and the heat creep is what you are seeing by not properly cooling the barrel. By not using the proper parts you are asking for issues and it may never likely work properly.
