I melted my print head trying to print ABS. I have had a bit of success in printing ABS on glue coloured glass, but it is still not perfect. What bed do you use for ABS and what bed temperature?
I use the traditional Kapton on glass bed, heated to real 115C (120C for larger prints). Nozzle temp is around 240C for all layers, depending on the specific filament, but I generally like it hot to keep inter-layer adhesion high. Keeping your bed grease-free is very important for any surface as well, so I generally wipe it down with acetone after every print just to be sure.
It depends on your filament and calibration of sensors what exact value you need. I extrude Protoparadigm ABS at 210°C on a 70°C bed. Most people shoot for 100 on the bed, so I think my bed temperature is wrong. So far my rule of thumb is ABS is too hot if it stinks.
120 degree bed for me with 230 at the nozzle. Hairspray straight on the aluminium for the bed. Hairspray should be extra hold and as budget grade as possible. The expensive stuff has all kinds of stuff that reduces is efficacy. The bottom layer should be extruded under pressure (nozzle very close to the surface) and quite slowly to ensure you get good adhesion.
Also put 3-6mm of BRIM in your slicer, this helps to have plane surfaces
I use Kapton on glass at 70-80c and agree with @Thomas_Sanladerer that an oil free bed is important (so don’t touch the print bed surface with your fingers, and if you can’t avoid it, do the acetone wipe down). If you still can’t get your prints to stick, try some abs juice. This is a small amount of filament dissolved in acetone, and then painted in a very thin layer on the surface of the bed. It works well for me when I print small objects.
Just tried 100 degree bed with glue and a 4mm brim. BUT it has bent the print head again. Only slightly, but the air duct hung too low (different to the picture above).
In a bit of a catch 22. I need an ABS print head, but can’t print one out of ABS because it melts the print head.
Is there anyone out there that can print me one? Happy to cover any costs. 
@Ben_Jackson Are you talking about the interface between your hot end (j-head or whatever) and the extruder carriage (cold end) getting so hot the PLA extruder softens and the hot end becomes loose? If so, you need to point a fan at the top of you hot end to keep it cool during the print.
Hi @Tim_Rastall Yes it is the part pictured above. It (along with other parts, but this is the main part) holds the hot end on the X axis. It already has a fan and I have increased it from the default 5V to 12V for extra cooling. However the fan doesn’t really cool the bottom properly only the top. IT does seem to cool the top effectively.
With high hot end temps (230 degrees) the weight of the extruder motor is pushing this part down and bending it. Apparently if you can get one out of ABS everything works out OK. I have the STL for it.
suggest not reach 225 degree for ABS, the peek prt will melt when 235-240degree.
@Rocky_Shi PEEK starts losing structural rigidity at 246C - 225C is fine.
you never know which manufacturer peek quality is good enough.
I have never seen PEEK lose structural rigidity below 245C; ever. Saying 225C is way off the ballpark. all PEEK plastic is rated for those temperatures, there aren’t different “qualities”, it’s either PEEK, or it’s not.
What is PEEK? Haven’t heard that one? Thanks.
PEEK is the thermoplastic that J-head any MANY other hot ends) bodies are made out of. It’s a thermoplastic that has a very high temperature which it becomes soft. Your FELIX uses a PEEK insulator most likely.
Ah, right. It’s the PLA of the print head that I’m worried about. The peek does some insulation, but obviously not enough. I am designing and printing a modified air duct that will bleed off some air to cool the bottom of the print head.
The PEEK insulation isn’t for insulating surrounding areas, so much as it’s to keep heat at the nozzle, and not at the point of attachment of the hot end, and disallow too much heat-creep up the barrel.