I need some help with my prints being over-extruded I think....

I need some help with my prints being over-extruded I think…

I tried printing the fish bone model on thingiverse:

The First thing that I noticed is that the Fish was 100% fused. There is no way that the bones could move, it was melted and fused solid!

Secondly, I printed it with a raft as it’s suggested in the Print Settings.
The raft was fused to the model, and I couldn’t even seperate it using pliers.

In efforts to try and remove the raft, I snapped the model in half, and just threw it away :frowning:

Any help would be great.

@Tia_Jacobson ​​​, The model is designed to be printed in one go… Not single links.
I’m thinking to decrease the extrusion multiplier and see where that takes me. It also looks like I’m print it too hot, and if was somewhat melted…

Settings I used.
PLA at 200 Deg.
Sliced with CURA
0.2mm later height
1.2mm shells
50mm/s print speed

You could not print the individual links because they are fully interlocked.

Over extrusion and stringing can be huge problems on this model. If it is not totally fused, you may be able to fix it by carefully inserting the tip of an Xacto blade around each joint to free it.

Slic3r has a feature called “XY size compensation” which can be set to make outside edges more accurate to design dimensions. It works by moving the outer perimeter path slightly inward to place the egde of the nozzle (rather than its center) on the line. Standalone Cura also has this feature, but CuraEngine does not. I’ve never used a raft for this print.

I recently printed several of these fish in ABS, they were awesome! I passed them out to our guest’s kids, who enjoyed them tremendously. By the time they left, they were able to roll the fish into a ring, nestling the head into its tail.

You might also try and scale it bigger. I tried the skeleton that is kind of the same and a the default size the joints fuzed but I scaled it up 125 % and it worked fine

Could be overextrusion or your z steps not set right. I don’t think rafts are really ever necessary if you have a good heated bed or good normal first layer adhesion.

Print this fish model and i think you should increase the flow rate ,90%its enough .Have a try.

Given my MK8 hobbed gear which I purchased from http://reprap.me
http://reprap.me/mk8.html

I have set my steps to 304.8 steps…
It was 354 steps/mm previously.
I noticed a major improvement.

However, now I have gaps on the sides, but head looks almost perfect…

Seems that I’m under extruding now. :frowning:

I’ll post photos in a separate thread.

My guess, retraction causing my new issue…

4mm retraction using bowden setup

@Panayiotis_Savva Steps per/mm should be a constant based on the calculations for your machine. Changing that will change the way your machine translates the calculations of the slicer. Changing a little is fine to tune, but a 50 step change is pretty dramatic. A better option if your extrusion is solid on other objects is to reduce the extrusion percentage in the slicer.

The models the creator of the piece makes some other great prints. However, your machine needs to be in a good state of tune for them to work. In many ways it’s a better test of your machine than a Benchy or a cube.

@dstevens_lv ​, I fully agree.
That’s why I went back to the drawing board to calculate what my steps per mm should have been based on my hardware.

I’ll try to follow your advice to increase extrusion % to see if I can get solid layers.