I played around with bed adhesion today. I have an aluminum bed.

3D Printing
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I played around with bed adhesion today. I have an aluminum bed. I been using painters tape but it starts to lift. With the 19.99 roll of pla, glue stick directly on the bed, pla temp 205 first layer, 190-195 other layers, 50 bed temp, .2 layer height, 50% infil, and some more tweaking on slic3r (I tried cura and compared to slic3r it sux) I had 0 problems. Funny thing is my parts are better than the originals I got from ebay. Problem I want to solve is the hex diameter on the big gear on my wades. My hex on the hobbed is smaller so I used electrical tape as a bushing. It looks not very professional but it works. I was offered to build a printer for some one and make a little extra cash. Making my own pieces I think I can make another for 400 for build costs. I have put a grand into mine so far (it’s a hobby).

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Glass with Aquanet hairspray. Never anything else for me.

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I’d do glass but I like the aluminum

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I use aluminum and like it but I have kapton square over it (the thick ones +printrbot sells) and I occasionally spray it down with Aqua Net. I routinely print 180mm square flat pieces that do not lift with the bed at about 90C in ABS with that setup. In fact, I’ll post a picture of a big flat print – I don’t think I can post a pic in a reply.

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I use Dima Fix, specific adhesive for 3D printing. It works great and avoid warping problems on ABS. Highly recommended, it is activated with temperature bed. It works better than each other like Nelly … Test it! : http://dimafix.com/

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Neat but in in the US