I still get frustrated with Kapton / PET tape. One of my TAZ3s was in need of new tape. I decided to test an idea I have had for a while. I etched the borosilicate glass. Theory is this will solve the harispray pulling up with the part.
Etched glass with hairspray:
I tried a few prints. My theory was proven. The hairspray stick perfect to the glass. Unfortunately I am now having pullup/warping issues with my parts. This was not the case with my AO-101 only these new TAZ printers. Tried several temps and the one that worked best was start at 65c finish 55c.
Etched glass with ABS juice:
I washed off the hairspray and applied 2 coats of ABS juice right on the glass. First test pulled up after about 20 layers @85c. It is hard to tell where the ABS juice application is with the etched glass, so I added a couple more layers and tried again. It performed great. 100+ layers with the second test. Held tight and popped right off when cooled down to 40c. The bed was nice an perfect after removing the part. This may be the best of both worlds. Stick of Kapton and low/no application of hairspray. I added another re-wipe of ABS juice and will send another print. Ultimate goal would be to have a nice thin abs coating that will last many prints. I will post updates here if there is interest.
ABS warping shouldn’t be “cured” by making it adhere better (you’re not really curing the problem, only masking it). It should be cured by eliminating drafts, cold spots, etc. Consider making an enclosure so that the build area stays warm.
To clarify, this research started to find a better solution than Kapton/PET. I was not getting warping issues with Kapton/PET. Only with hairspray in the same environment, same printers, same settings other than bed temp.
I get near perfect results with normal UHU paper glue stick on glass. I have even had the glue adhere so well that it pulls the glass apart. Use three or four coats of glue (dry between each coat) on a normal glass sheet. Heat bed to 70-80 degrees.
@Stephanie_A , first I tried the weak stuff at hobby stores. Do not bother, borosilicate is too hard. Go to a local stained glass shop and pick up the strongest they have. I used a brand called “Etch Bath”. Made for dipping parts. Remove glass from printer, place on level surface, poured in the middle, spread out with an acid brush. I applied 1 coat and left it on for about 30min.
@ThantiK I agree with what you are saying to a degree. ABS should print fine if you can keep it to 100+ degrees. But this is pretty hard to do in some cases. I use an adhesive so that I can lower the bed temp down to 80 degrees (could probably go lower) which for me is much more manageable.
