I tried an idea I had for cheaper wheels,

I tried an idea I had for cheaper wheels, printing them out and putting heat shrink on them.

I took the #OpenBuilds .slprt file for their wheel and used #Onshape to modify it slightly for the heat shrink and bearing fit. It felt slightly bumpy on the v-slot even after sanding before putting on the heat shrink. Also it might not be perfectly 45 degrees on both sides because one side was an overhang.

Printed in PLA at .2mm layers. I guess it wouldn’t save that much money in the end but it was fun testing it out.

Now I do like this idea. Maybe print it in two parts and glue or hold together with the bolt.

Now that is a really clever idea!

If you have even decent cooling printing a 45 degree overhang shouldn’t be an issue. Use extra perimeters if need be, but again, should work out fine.

@Electra_Flarefire I like these ideas too

@Brigham_Valdez I’ve never worked with plasti-dip before. Sounds like it might be difficult to keep it round while it dries.

@raykholo well it printed fine, it’s just the sides aren’t quite the same. So @Electra_Flarefire ​ 's suggestion would be to print two halves separately in the same orientation and put them together to ensure they both have the same angle.

Just wondering…

Has anyone tried to make tyres/wheels from an OoGoo substitute like this:

Essentially it’s standard 100% sillicone caulk plus cornstarch powder to make it hand-workable.

I imagine that pressing this oogoo substitute into a 3d printed negative mold of the tyre shape, and then letting it cure overnight might do the trick too…?

@Nazar_Cem I think your onto something using heatshrink for this. It’s consistent, it’s smooth and it’s strong. Especially if you use the glue-lined stuff. It’ll give just enough play to make it smooth/grippy without making it squishy as it’ll have the hard ABS/PLA core.
Printing it in two parts, each having a ridge to catch the bearings so when assembled, the bolt it’self pulls the two halfs together, THEN putting the heatshrink onto should make it as good as it can be. This also puts the join in the center where it won’t effect anything.

@Brigham_Valdez i’ve try wheels with ninjaflex

it works but the wheel tend to bend when there are to many weight or tension. (even with a 100% infill)

the heatshrink idea is realy interesting. but does a pla wheel support the heat needed ? doesn’t they deform ?

@Nazar_Cem some other posts on similar subjects;
https://plus.google.com/+ShaukiB/posts/PUwdMysffK2
https://plus.google.com/+AndreasThorn1/posts/UKsALfL132E
https://plus.google.com/+MarcSchönfleisch/posts/YSU7t65pF3f
https://plus.google.com/+AndreasThorn1/posts/Bpo7oTY1ntX

I just buy the tyres and then source the bearings, etc. separately - saves about $1.75 per wheel over open builds ‘kit’ wheel set.

@Nazar_Cem Plasti dip is quite fragile and not designed for contact surfaces. It will most likely tear out the moment you run it .

I’d be curious to know how long your wheels run as the heat shrink tube will also wear out eventually.

@Nathan_Walkner yep. Have a spool. Yet to get around to printing with it.