I wanted to try diagonal printing as @Whosa_whatsis described here: https://plus.google.com/105535247347788377245/posts/E2rgyQWrRQb
It’s a temporary replacement part for the latch on my shed. So ~15 minutes to draft dimensions from the existing part, 45 minutes to design in @FreeCAD , and a bit over 2 hours print time.
Put the part at a 30 degree angle, and let Cura (14.07) build support. I could have used some support structure in that big hole, too. I realize now that one of the standard methods for getting horizontal holes to print is to flatten off the top to just let it bridge, but then you have to be careful about which way you rotate the part to get the support.
The support didn’t come off too cleanly. I ended up crushing it with a pair of pliers, and then was able to peel some sections away manually, and went in and scraped the rest. My bridge settings didn’t get me a nice flat bottom, but it worked well enough for me.
The surface finish is quite interesting. Looks better than usual flat surfaces, since my top layer infill has never been great.
Overall, pretty pleased.
I imagine the ‘tab’ is more strongly joined to the ‘base’ with the diagonal print.
I’m also hoping that lock is largely used simply as a pin. As strong as your print looks, I don’t think it would deter a forceful entry much. 
Yes, mostly just a pin, until I can find the proper replacement at the hardware store.
Agreed on the tab joint. It’s especially good as I wasn’t able to do external fillets in FreeCAD (0.13, maybe it changed in 0.14) at that seam like I wanted to to relieve some stress.
PLA, right? It’s still usually pretty hard to get the supports off of PLA, though it would have been easier if you’d used a more aggressive angle so that if wasn’t printing on top of the supports so much. For objects like this, where most of the surfaces are at right angles to one another, I rotate 45 degrees on one axis, then 35 degrees on the other. This way, all of the surfaces facing down are roughly the same angle. Better, this angle is about 35 degrees from vertical, so it doesn’t really need support at all, though this generally leaves the attachment point to the platform almost nonexistant, so I crank up the settings to build support for anything less than 30 degrees from vertical (using touching buildplate). The purpose of this support is really to provide lateral support to keep the object from being knocked over, rather than to give you something to print on top of, and this makes it much easier to remove.
This angle also helps with holes like the big one in this print. Instead of building up flat sides at steeper and steeper angles, the overhang that gets steeper as it nears the top is a corner, with one side constantly at 35 degrees. This generally works much better (sometimes shockingly so).
