Still early days with mine. Heat is fast and even. Only problem is it does flex and warp fairly badly under the force to remove prints. Multipoint bed leveling does correct for the beds that form over time at least somewhat. I’m planning on using mine with cork under it for insulation to make the printer as energy-efficient as possible where flatness isn’t critical. Printing on the aluminium side.
And I put a sheet of glass on top when I want flatter.
Still experimenting though. I’d like to see a 4-5mm thick version of this.
Right now… Uhu Stic glue on heated glass with PLA, it works a bit too well sometimes. I keep finding excuses(Right now, a rebuild of part of the printer) to avoid playing with ABS but I’m almost out of them.
As I said, still early days with this.
I use the MK1 with glass on it. I do recommend it, but also use something to cover the printer and keep the heat inside a bit. If the temperature difference between the print bed and ambient is to high, your part will bend and detach from the bed. Just a cardboard box is enough, which is what I use
There’s some info about that on my blog: http://make.kinamics.com/2014/09/tutorial-the-reprap-3d-printer-part-i-building-it/