I’m having ongoing trouble with adhesion and would love some advice. If you look at the bed you can see the skirt is still attached and shows that 3 or 4cm of the model has “peeled up” from the print bed. The peeling happens slowly over time through the printing.
Some details:
The print bed is Kapton covered glass
The bed is sitting at 110c
I’m using Grey ABS at 230c
Print speed are reasonably slow, though this doesn’t seem to make a difference. The peeling is a function of time.
I’m tried hairspray and various other sticky stuff, however the issue remains. I have put “windows” over the various opening, which helped but still hasn’t stopped it.
Could it be:
Bed levelling?
Temperatures?
A draft from the cooling fans?
Something else?
Yes, you need the area hot, while you could get enough sticky stuff to make the base stick but until the area it hot as possible you will move to delamination somewhere else due to the shirinkage as the filament cools
You are printing very close to the corner of the bed.
Although the bed’s temperature sensor gives you 110 degrees, the edges of the bed are losing heat fast, and the corners the fastest, so they are at a lower temperature than the rest of the bed.
You could try adding thermal insulation, like a rubber sheet, that goes all along the bottom of the board and then wraps a little bit over the edges and onto the top.
Make sure that there are no gaps in the insulation, especially make sure it’s tight and close-fitting at the edges and corner of the bed.
This way, the bed will have a much more even temperature - the corners will be close to the 110 degree setpoint.
Also, proper insulation will save you a lot of electrical power - less energy is required to maintain 110 degrees.
I used to have similar issues but have got them pretty well sorted.
Here is what works for me:
Make sure the bed is completely level. (Less than .05mm across the print area.)
Keep the room as temperature stable as possible. The temperature itself is not that important, just as little variation as possible during print.
Keep the printer draft free. Even small air currents can make a difference.
Do away with the Kapton tape and clean the plate well. Spray the plate with lacquer hair spray and let it dry completely. Once it is dry, heat the plate to your print temperature and let it cool.
Use purple glue stick to apply a very thin coating to the print area.
Get your bed temperature up to 80C.
Get your hotend up to temperature.
Turn the print cooling fan ON. (Goes against what a lot of others are saying, but this works for me.)
When setting z-height use a piece of regular copy paper as a height gauge. Zero it so that there is some resistance to moving the paper between the printhead and the build surface.
Use a 5mm brim on the print.
Use as high a print temperature as you can without it stringing too much. (I use about 230C with my ABS). A higher print temperature provides better inter-layer adhesion.
Let the plate cool completely before trying to remove the print. (You may hear some faint cracking sounds as the print starts to release from the plate.) It still may take a small amount of ‘persuasion’ to get the print off the plate.
