I'm having trouble with curl on my modified Cupcake. (Printrboard, stepper extruder, cantilevered  Z-stage).

I’m having trouble with curl on my modified Cupcake. (Printrboard, stepper extruder, cantilevered Z-stage).

My printer is enclosed, I have a heated bed (110 for first layer, 100 for additional ). ABS.
Last night was the first time fully enclosed (printing the effector for a Mini Kossel) everything was going fine but towards the end the bottom edges of the arms started to pull up. This makes the piece pretty worthless as the nuts and screws won’t fit properly after the warp.

What’s the next step? I really thought enclosing it was working.

What is the build surface? kapton? PET? hairspray?
those being in ascending order of layer adhesion in my experience.
maybe adjust the Z endstop down a tad. really squish that first layer on there only just to the point where the nozzle is getting blocked and causing backpressure.
I’ll often change my Z endstop height depending on what i’m printing. Tweak it down for things at risk for warp, or back up when I want ease of removal.

Aluminum with Kapton + hairspray. (Aussie Extra hold)
I do have the Z correct down 0.3mm to get it tight close to the platform.

Slic3r is extruding the first layer at 200% (I think - whatever the default is). I could dial that back and attempt to go another .05 down or something like that.

I can’t really speak to number on the first layer, but If the extrusion is wide and fat, but not so wide and fat that the first layer infill builds up on itself as it doubles back, then I know it will stick good.

I’d suggest ditching the kapton. Hairspray on glass sticks the best i’ve found. You might have more success with PET on the aluminium if you can’t get glass.
I’ve heard of people using ABS juice, but I never tried it.
Also elmer’s glue, but I’ve only tried that with nylon on bare glass.
this is the glass I use

It’s a little over 200mm square, but it works for me. I went with 1/4" because it was the same price as the thinner ones, and i’m using it as the whole bed. The Y carriage attaches to the glass, with the heater taped to the underside of the glass with an insulated pad taped under that. Insulated pad is mostly so the thermistor under the heater doesn’t have cold air underneath it.