I’m interested in upgrading my K40 to be able to use LaserWeb by +Peter van der Walt. What I’m looking for is some assistance in what components I need to get in order to do so. I’ve seen people mentions RAMPS, Smoothie, etc. and to be honest, I barely understand what any of it is. So I’m looking for advice as to what is required in order to complete the full upgrade to be compatible. Also, I’ve seen people mention check LaserWeb github or something and again, I barely know what that is.
And specifically for Peter, if there is anything in particular that you would prefer a user get to add functionality or testing for particular devices/hardware, then let me know.
As I know pretty much nothing about all this stuff, I will have to learn it all from scratch, so I have no preferred setup. I’m relying on the advice of all here to guide me in what is best for performance.
One feature that I am very much looking forward to being able to use is having different shapes engraved at different power levels.
Also, a side note, I use Adobe Illustrator for my design phase, and I’m fairly certain I’ve seen that SVG is importable? Is this correct?
Another side note, my budget for components is not huge per pay, so it will be a purchase bit-by-bit sort of thing (or save for a bit & buy multiple things at same time if they are from the same supplier).
Thanks to everyone in advance for any and all advice given.
@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y your best option is smoothie. There is a document in this group that talks specifically about upgrading to smoothie. You can import svg for cutting without problems. Just make sure all objects are path. Also you will set power level based on color. So if you want different power levels per item just assing a specific color to the path and once imported to LaserWeb it will let you assing power and speed. In my YouTube account you will find videos of various test I’ve done and you’ll see more or less the features available.
+Peter van der Walt Thanks for the very thorough reply Peter. I will take a look at that collection you showed. I guess smoothie of some sort it is. I will have to look into them a bit more to determine what is what.
So basically all I need is the Smoothie controller? If that’s the case, I’m sold. I assumed I need heaps of things.
+Peter van der Walt Awesome, I have been holding off on this because I thought it was a complicated process involving a whole bunch of circuitry related stuff that is probably beyond my current knowledge. I’ll get onto it & hopefully have a smoothie board of some sort on the way soon.
@StephaneBUISSON Even better. This group is full of amazing members. Thanks for that. When I get to that stage if I need assistance I will check with you.
@I_Laser defenetly possible, I have done deep engraving with my diode with LaserWeb so it’s just playing with the image and the setting in raster. Mind that I like the idea of angle the laser to further the effect.
@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y Just to double check, what is your comfort level with tinkering with electronics (soldering, etc)? I found the conversion straightforward but I’ve done a lot of this sort of thing. There is still a fair amount of work wiring together the correct jumpers and headers, etc. If you have a k40 with a ffc ribbon connector, you’ll probably want to MIddleman or similar adapter board, which requires soldering on a connector with tiny closely-spaced pins. If you need help, there are plenty of folks here willing to help (me included), but you’ll want to know what to expect.
@Vince_Lee Honestly I haven’t done a lot of tinkering with electronics/soldering for years.
Just yesterday I tried rigging up LEDs & resistors to power it from old phone battery, but something went awry. I am not certain whether the resistors were incorrect size (I just trusted the guy at shop to hook me up with correct ones for my purpose) or if I did something wrong. But with resistors in place, the LEDs wouldn’t light. I tried various orientations of the LEDs & resistors, positions in the circuit, direction of the current, etc. Nothing worked… until I removed the resistors. Then the LEDs light up. But, I think I killed them haha.
I can’t seem to find my reasonable soldering iron, so I was using a horrible old one, but when I find where I’ve put my reasonable one (or purchase another) I should be a lot more capable of soldering close pins without getting solder everywhere.
So, simply put, I am vaguely comfortable/capable of soldering.
Also, this group is great & has many people willing to help with areas they are familiar with. I’m quite pleased with the participation/assistance of members here.
edit: I just remembered, my K40 has a ribbon cable for the Y-axis stepper motor. Is that what you are referring to that may require a middleman board?
@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y yes, I recommend a middleman board. I have a few I never used because I ended up mking my own adapter board with more features. If u want I can send you one and may even have an extra ribbon connector for it. Do you by chance have a moshiboard in your k40? If so, the board I made may be more convenient as it accepts the moshiboard connectors which would simplify your wiring.
@Vince_Lee I’ve got the m2 board on my k40. Might be worthwhile getting the middleman board off you as well when we organise the laser glasses plastic stuff.