I’m looking for new PSU for my printer.
Since I moving to AC heated bed I think I’m not going to need much of the power for this PSU so what is the suitable watts rating for Delta printer with single hotend and have some room for dual/quad filament upgrade(one hotend with 2 or 4 extruder motors)
I’m looking at 150-200W which should be enough.
Also since I going to buy new PSU it might be worth get a 24V one, or is there any downside to that a part from needed for new heater cartridge and fan?
Yeah, 24v will get you some good motor performance.
Do you already have a 12v rated hotend already? If you’re running Smoothie there’s a max_pwm feature that lets you do that seamlessly. Otherwise it’s a concern.
Anyways a 24v 10a LED power supply is fairly cheap, like $30. Even some U.S. sellers on eBay and you get that shipped domestic for around $35.
@raykholo I already have 12V heater cartridge for hotend and yes for Smoothie. PSU I looking at Meanwell,maybe LRS, NES or even SE model.
So like I said, a 24v 10 amp will be (more than) enough for some motors and hotends, and you can use that feature in smoothie config to run a 12v cartridge/ fans from 24v psu
Honestly, a 24v PSU is a great upgrade. Most new printers should be built with 24v by default; just be aware that certain boards won’t tolerate 24v due to derated caps (cheap RAMPS boards, etc). Ultimately you’ll want to swap heater cartridge for a 24v one in the long run (say, you forget that it’s a 12v and you move to a new software revision…you don’t want to risk your safety). AC heated beds are amazing with the reduction in PSU requirements, heating ability, and thinner wire thickness needs. You’ll want a thermal cutoff switch for added safety - when AC heaters heat up, they heat up FAST and you don’t want that running away on you either.
I used a 24v 5A supply for my printer, which is only ~120 watts - also SSR/AC heated bed. I also used Z motors which were calculated for full-cog layer heights and shut them off when unused, which you don’t have the luxury of doing on a delta. 200W should be more than enough.
As for 24v fans, they’ve got a much smaller selection. I’d almost buy a 24v/12v buck converter for those purposes so that you continue to have a wide selection of fans to choose from.
The ac heated bed probably means laptop power supplies becomes a good option.
@raykholo I strongly advise against using max_PWM to run 12v cartridges on 24v, there’s just too much safety risk. For example, if the FET fries-on, or the controller freezes, or the heater wiring shorts to ground, your printer is getting slagged and maybe your house too. It’s a bad practice that we need to get away from as a community.
@Mark_Rehorst Wiring two BLDC fans in series is really abusive to the fans, and is a good way to burn them out. The motor commutation controller doesn’t like the switching noise from the other fan. And if the fans run at different speeds for whatever reason (eg jam one with a piece of filament) it’s really easy to kill them entirely.
There’s only one time I really felt limited by the availability of 24V fans, and that was when I wanted a fan with a built-in light.
24V cartridge isn’t expensive so I will upgrade a long side PSU.
24V fan is hard to find for some size so buck converter might come in handy.
Please, anyone, a link to a descent thermal cutoff switch for a 800W 230V silicon heatbed that can be attached to the aluminium tooling plate?
@Terje_Moe http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=232092859817http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=232092859817&globalID=EBAY-US
You will need to make or find a clamp for it but that should do the job.
Thanks Jeff
Hope I don’t hijack this tread !
After starting to look into this, how about the two alternatives I’ve listed below?
I guess it’s best with the first one with manuell reset and normally closed.
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/05en1034-130-c/thermal-switch-nc-130-c/dp/732588?MER=bn_level5_5NP_EngagementRec_1
@Terje_Moe nah that’s fine, I’m looking into that too 