I didn’t encounter this kind of artifact before, if there is pretty serious backlash happening on both axis, then when you lock the belt position with one hand, you will be able to move the carriage along that axis a bit? BTW, what’s the speed setting of the printing? what’s the acceleration and jerk setting you are using?
@larry_huang Larry I’ve not tried to lock the carriage via belts and move it to check lash. Will try that later today.
Those prints were all 2400mm/m to ensure it wasn’t a speed issue. ‘Junction deviation’ is 0.5mm and accell is 2000mm/second/second
@Eclsnowman in regards to the cross bar extrusions, I actually did that when I had it all loose for the reason you mentioned. Didn’t make a difference however.
I’m currently (trying) to print a new carriage and see if I can put that in… maybe it’ll make the difference. If that doesn’t work then I think I’ll try and make a new carriage similar to the one posted above, (just w/out the direct drive parts) and see if that makes a difference.
I did tighten the belts a bunch more last night which took out about 1/3-1/2 of the lash (as viewed by comparing test parts).
One other issue I’m having (just starting to use ABS) is part warping and coming loose off the bed. To date I’ve used PLA but for printer parts, want to use something a little more temperature stable. I’ve got PEI on glass but for the life of me am having a dickens of a time getting it to not warp and get ripped off. My filament (from http://spool3d.ca) says 80-100C bed temps but nothing in that range makes it better? I’ve found if I do HUGE brims that 'sometimes ’ it will stick… just those first 10-15 layers are the kicker, after that it’s fine?
(On a Eustathios, not [yet] enclosed)http://spool3d.ca