I’m quite excited about the new bed auto levelling feature added to Marlin.
Now I’ve just got to work out how to set it up.
Does anyone know of any decent documentation how to setup the servo and the ideal place to get one
Instructions on setting it up are right on the github page for Marlin. Servo is plugged into the servo headers on a RAMPS 1.4
@ThantiK yeah, I had a read and search before I decided to post here 
I can probably work out how to connect the servo to my Megatronics board but was trying to work out the type of servo to use.
Any hobby servo with a 3 pin connector. I don’t think there are many mounts/setups for this yet, so likely mounting it is going to require some work on your part. There is an adapter for the MakerFarm prusa, for example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157995 - but not much else.
Dumb question but is there a servo header on RAMBo or Rumba?
@ThantiK awesome, cheers m8, I’ll go order one hopefully my megatronics board has the pins for it
@Shane_Graber , @Yomi_Colledge , there are typically extra endstop ports that could be used. However, it may require re-ordering the pin header of the servo, and maybe some editing of the pins.h in order to get other boards working, but it should work. So you could take X-MAX for example, and the normal pinout for a servo is S, pos, neg. Pinout for other boards seems to be S, neg, pos – just a swap of the power wires should make it compatible if using a board without ‘native’ support.
Awesome! I’m going to have to look into this more.
@Anthony Morris cool, I’m going to swap my mechanical end sops for optos soon and have the spare pins. I’ll have to play around with it, hopefully over the next week.
optos are not only not better than mechanical endstops, they’re more of a pain in the ass because they can be affected by overhead light sources, etc.
@ThantiK ahhh, cheers for the heads up
I’ll skip swapping them then and get order my mechanicals
What about hall effect endstops? I see some printers using them, and since they are much more expensive I wonder why.
I haven’t had experience with Hall effect endstops so I can’t really form an educated opinion on them, unfortunately.
I use the cheap hall effect sensor for my Prusa i3 y-axis. It use very little space so I have full y-bed movement. Can’t get used to the “no click” when endstop hits :-). For a “ordinary” hall effect endstop I think it have better repeatability compared to something that eventually will move on smooth rods. Good for deltas and I would like one for my Prusa Z …
And last. I have designed and printed a holder and arm for 9g servo bed leveling that will not steel any bed space. Will mount and test tomorrow. Publish and give you a heads up.
Link to cheap endstop: http://notanumber.net/archives/66/upgrading-my-reprap-with-cheap-hall-effect-sensors
Nice @Tom_Oyvind_Hogstad . Why are they better than switches ?
The usual way to fasten endstops on repraps is by fasten a holder to a smooth rod. Because it is in actual contact with the carriage/a moving part it will move a tiny, tiny bit over time. This is only notable on Z axis. A hall endstop will not move and the expensive one have a pot for fine tuning.
I wonder if it works on Delta 3D printer.
I’ve never had my mechanical Z endstop holders move over time. But I use a much beefier Z endstop holder. This isn’t the same one, but the one I’m using is very similar: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:127539
@Shachar_Weis theoretically, hall effect sensors have no mechanical parts, only being tripped by electric fields, so you have less failure modes and higher repeatability. As for use in a 3d printer, I don’t have any experience so I can’t say. Bit as mentioned, hall effect sensors internally have an analog signal, so having a pot to fine tune when it trips is convenient, whereas a mechanical limit switch is either open or closed. Over time, mechanical switches wear out and change where they trip, but I’m not sure if that’s really a big deal as the end stops don’t get cycled very often