This is the Slic3r general screen. My eSun 200º profile is selected.
l@Ulrich_Baer I have a few meters, I will try to at least print one or two layers.
Next thing I would try is doing an E steps calibration (with the nozzle on, some instructions will tell you to disconnect it) to see how much plastic is actually going in. This should make any drive gear issues apparent.
Check your X/Y/Z dimensions while you’re at it, as that could also cause this, but they would have to be pretty far off to cause this.
I’m wondering if the problem can be the speed of printing. The first layer is printed at 30mm/s and give a fantastic result, no gaps, all perfectly filled … On next layers, internal walls are printed at 60mm/s, external at 30mm/s, infill at 60mm/s…
Maybe this filament don’t “support” such speeds ?
Looking back, you said you’re using a titan. Is that a recent addition? Because if you switched from something ungeared and didn’t change steps/mm (or changed it incorrectly), that would explain it. Also, if the spring isn’t tensioned properly, the filament could be slipping. The latter issue WOULD be increased at higher speeds. OTOH, initial layer(s) looking properly filled when others don’t can also be explained by those layers being over-compressed.
Regardless of speed of printing, the same amount of plastic that goes in has to come out, so speed can only cause something like this if it is resulting in a feed failure.
Do you listen to the printer? It should be audible if you have extrusion issues. Printing slower or raising the temperature will help filament ooze around any partial clogs or burs in the hotend.
Extruder motor skipping is audible, but is unlikely to happen on a Titan with its standard motor, because the torque is overkill (unless you’ve switched it to a pancake stepper). Filament slipping is not usually audible, at least not above the other noises most printers make.
With the amount of compensation you are having to make in flow without resolution I’m suspecting something mechanical. Possibly a restriction or something slipping. When using the filament diameter adjustment on the clips it should not stray beyond +/-0.15mm in measured diameter. That equates to about +/-15% flow.
Try a little of the old filament or at a slower speed and see if anything changes.
Even though I said to go ahead and try 300% flow, tht was only because it seemed your slicer profile might have been set up wrong. You showed us clearly that it was not and there should be no problem there unless Slic3r was ignoring your profile.
I agree with the idea of no more than a 10% flow adjustment during normal use.
I forgot about filament slippage being too quiet to hear.
What are the details of the previous filament and did you do a cold pull to remove it from your nozzle? Without a good cold pull, it might still be in the hot end and causing a partial obstruction.
Ok, so how does the filament feel when pushed through by hand?
@Juanjo_Sanchez I’ve been printing PLA only from esun brand for years and have never ever successfully printed with it below 220 degrees. I’m impressed that your prints are looking as good as they are. Some mighty bite that extruder of yours has. Try cranking extruder to 220 and give it another go 
As a counterpoint, esun PLA has been what I have mostly printed with over the last several years as well, and I’ve never gone over 210C. If I’m printing .1mm layers, I sometimes go down to 190C for sharper features and better overhangs.