I’m struggling getting PLA to stick.
I’m trying to build a ceiling lamp shade.
After about 2mm thickness, it gets unstuck.
It’s due to warping…
I tried blue painters tape, but the take gets unstuck from the glass.
Also tried printing directly on the glass with hairspray.
No heated bed yet. Any suggestions?
I don’t want to add brims due to the finish quality.
Try using prittstick and slowing the first layer down a bit more.
On glass without tape?
I’ve always had a heated print bed so I couldn’t say exactly what would work but I’ve just used prittstick on a new printer and struggled to get the part OFF.
Are you printing directly on glass and applying pritt on that?
Yes.
Maybe get your nozzle a little closer to the bed?
@_Spice That is also a good suggestion.
I’ll bring it down a little more and see what happens. I’ve got a Mosfet on order to connect my heated bed. It will take another month before it arrives
As a note, I personally calibrate my bed much closer than a piece of paper. While paper is normally 0.1mm, I bring mine to 0.038mm
you can use a hair dryer or fan heater, that will reduce the temp. difference - but a heated bed is mandatory for bigger objects. Do you use a raft ?
@_Spice Just wondering… What you make with your printer that lets you get the nozzle that close; or is the bed on yours especially flat.
@Duncan_Gunn I use a feeler gauge, and the smallest one is 0.038mm. my bed is actually warped concaved quite a bit, so keeping it especially close keeps me from that being a huge issue. I don’t even have to use an auto leveler because of how close I keep it.
@Duncan_Gunn normaly your bed should be at 0… so the first layer printed at 0.2 is at 0.2 - for calibration you move your head up to 0.1 and then level with a paper (or better with a feeler gauge as @_Spice but it is much easier to do this at a higher position - you just need somthing with a known width)
@Ulrich_Baer That’s what I always thought, however with time, I started to scrutinize the first layer and adjust it to suit by my attuned eye which seems to work for me.
This has more to do with my glass print-bed and Kapton tape effort not being quite as flat as I’d like.
Maybe I should get a nice solid piece of precision ground aluminium instead.
@Duncan_Gunn absolutly in the end the look of the layer count and not any value… but if your first layer is thicker, overextruded or wider this could mask a bad calibration. If you get a hotbed you will notice that different temp. cause different level, which need to be taken into account when printing different materials ( i learned this by scratching through kapton tape several times)
@Ulrich_Baer Now there’s the power of sharing knowledge. You’re one in a million!
pva on glass… always flawless… apply 2-3 layers if your bed is cold… also if your bed is aluminum below glass insulate the bed from below… the thing is metal beds run without heating tend to suck the heat out of the print and make even pla prints warp. so till you get your relay use a piece of mdf/felt/rubber/silicon between the glass and aluminium
@ekaggrat_singh_kalsi , now that is an interesting thought. I’ll try that today.
