Interesting new problem today with the front right corner of my print lifting.
What’s strange is that it does not matter how I orient the part or where on the bed it I print it.
Printing ABS 230c, bed 115c.
Bed is clean, with hairspray applied (which usually works extremely well for me.)
Bed is level to .00 mm in any direction - measured with indicator.
Any ideas?
Check for drafts and/or block two or three sides with some sheets of paper to cut down on cross-winds.
Hi if you use slic3r for slicing use brim option under skirt and brim, and put something like 2/3 mm brim width. I think 110C is enough for the print bed temperature and 230C for the extruder.
FYI I used hairspray on glass and stopped because the lower layers were shrinking. I made a post about it here.
Now using PET tape on borosilicate glass and ABS-acetone slurry with good results. Still sometimes it helps to model some flat support surfaces in the corners 1 layer thick like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17671
It’s easier to remove with a knife than a full brim.
UPDATE: I wanted to test the above recommendations (thanks for your responses). I left temp settings at 230 hot end and 120 bed for ABS (no temp change after first layer.) I covered the air vent in the room, closed the door, put a sheet over back of machine and made a windshield on 3 sides with a file folder. I then reprinted the part with the same gcode as before.
RESULT: The part printed with almost no lift at the corner. There was a small amount of lift, perhaps enough for the edge of a razor blade.
@giampaolo, I am using slic3r and will experiment with the brim to see if that makes a difference.
@Normand, I have had such consistent success with hair spray in the past that I hesitate to give that up unless there is no better way. I love the convenience of cleaning the boroscillate glass with acetone, letting it dry, spraying it, letting it dry and then using it for many prints - with no tape, glue, slurry, etc. I think I will try your flat support surface idea…
Thanks,.
Layers heigh? Nozzle diameter?
@Eric_Mack I was sad giving up hairspray, parts pop off the bed so easily when it cools down. But if your parts need to be precise, it is a no-go. I repeatedly printed X-ends with grooves for the smooth rods which should have been 50mm apart, they were 49mm apart instead. No more such imprecision once I switched to ABS+acetone slurry.
Maybe the borosilicate glass causes this, I don’t know.
@giampaolo_zamborlini I am using a .4 mm E3D Nozzle and I am printing at .2mm layer height
Agreed. As stated in the intro, I used a DTI to indicate the bed to .00 in x & y relative to Z
@Tim_Youngblood1 Thanks for the insight. We are all learning and I appreciate the feedback. I’m trying to document what I learn by following up so that the next guy can learn from this thread…
Agree with comments above. I print with a big brim on parts known to lift (i2 levelling vertex). I level during the skirt print. I level often using Run | Level in Quokka (http://splod67.com) which moves the nozzle around the bed (dragging a piece of paper).
Tried this? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114868
