Is there any significant difference between ballscrew and trapezoidal leadscrew for the resolution? Anybody here has been compare it? I have a plan to use ballscrew 1204 but maybe any opinions about the leadscrew T12 on any pitchs? Thanks
Do you plan on using screws for your X and Y axes as well as Z? Asked because ball screws will typically have lower backlash, but this doesn’t really matter when you have the gravity preload for a Z-axis
Resolution is mainly governed by the pitch of the screw. I don’t know enough about those screws off the top of my head to tell you which has the finer pitch.
Using just that on my printer. I mainly print at .25mm in height, but i printed many times at .1mm of height. Results were nice, but i was not patient enough to stand the print times at .1mm
What you see here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:313095
Is my printer, and the printer part in the picture library was my very first print.
@Ishaan_Gov I plan to use only on Z because IMHO combination between belt and pulley is already good for X and Y
@Dale_Dunn CMIIW the common trapezoidal leadscrew use by 3D printers mostly using T88 and this is this is 1204 … I think this is going to be finer than T8*8 isn’t is?
@Jean-Francois_Talbot waow that’s great!! any issues beside the slow movement?
@Roy_Prawira I top out at 100mm/s on X and Y movements, and that is due to the weight of the gantry and the geared stepper. Other that than, I haven’t tuned it in years, I simply replace my j-heads from time to time…
Since I do not use auto level, meaning I level my bed by hand, Z only moves when changing layers. I find auto leveling is simply a band-aid on a poorly calibrated bed, which mine isn’t 
“I find auto leveling is simply a band-aid on a poorly calibrated bed, which mine isn’t :P” — I like this words and I agreed, I believe when we choose the right bed material and calibrate carefully then the bed will be good enough to be a print base … Any other thought about 1204 ballscrew,? And thanks guys for the feedback … Really appreciated 
@Roy_Prawira I use 1204 on my printer, and to make sure your ballscrew is not the guide, but only drives the movement, make sure your rods are 12mm also. As in my case, I got 2 ballscrew and 4 shaft, so in strength, shafts win.
4 shafts? waow, I have a plan to use 3 ballscrew with 2 shafts only (12mm also) and using three-spot formation for ballscrew, is it going to be a problem? I’m using belt to sync between the ballscrew
@Roy_Prawira shafts are the to gide the movement, to make sure whatever you move along their axis always move the same. Ballscrew create movement, they should never guide it, as they generate rotational forces and those forces will make whatever you move along their axis oscillate.
That is why you need greater strength in guiding than moving, to ensure you move back-forth the same all the time. A three point ballscrew setup will effectively work in moving things, but you will have artefacts like there is no tomorrow because of the oscillating forces.
In short: strength of shaft must always be bigger that strength of your ballscrews. Shaft must win. Always!!!
@Jean-Francois_Talbot thanks a lot, I’ve got your point and I will change it later, you are really helpfull …
Regarding ballscrew vs leadscrew, you want to stay clear of the high helix leadscrews. You also want to look at the quality of the nut. If you choose a resin nut, make sure you can get replacement as it will wear over time.
I decided to use ballscrew because instead of chainging a resin nut, I simply lube, and at 12mm of diameter, there were a whole lot cheaper than quality leadscrews. Plus, ordering 1204 ballscrew, I could order the stepdown I wanted for my shaft connexion. Was looking at Thomson or other good brand name for leadscrew, and ballscrew cost me about 1/4 of the price of brand name leadscrew.
Of course, there is always acme leadscrew you can loot at. Just mind the nut, and because you weight will be constant on your Z axis, you don’t need a really expensive antibacklash…
Thanks again :), my plan is to order from china first for my prototype and I heard some people bought from there and some of them received the bent ballscrew or the plastic inside nut is not for a long usage. The reason I want to use ballscrew because I interested the ballscrew is less friction than leadscrew, of course the good leadscrew from a well known company will be sufficient too. But at least, I hope when the Z problem is solved then the X and Y hopefully more easier to manage.