Is this corruption on the bow still a cooling issue? It looked pretty much like this before I added a proper part cooler.
Overextrusion?
@Philipp_Tessenow Do you think? The underside is over extruded intentionally in settings, but after the first layer I drop to 100%, my steps are right, and the multiplier is .96
Pla? Abs? Heated bed? Printing temperature?
Your first layer looks horrible
Printed at 200°C without cooling the part and with no heated bed 0.25mm lh
PLA, 210c, 60c. Yeah, the first layer is bad, but printed at 150%. I am focusing on the weird bow, but I guess it could be knock on from a bad start? The sides are much better, but the overhang is far less
Depending on the brand 210°C might be a bit too hot. Some even recommend ~185°C which I personally think is too cold.
Maybe adding some minimal layer time.
How fast are you printing?
Why are you over-extruding the first layer? I don’t see the point of doing that.
There are a couple of things to try which might improve the print:
- Use two perimeters instead of one
- Reduce the extrusion temperature. Print as cool as possible.
@Neil_Darlow maybe printing the outer perimeter slower might help, too
I guess people over extrude the first layer because there are so many tutorials suggesting it. I was planning to turn it off, so it is good to have that reinforced.
I replaced the cold-end with something with far more torque than what came with the kit, and 210c was how high I needed to go to make it “easier” on the cold-end. But yes, definitely time to experiment with lower temps 
I thought I had more than one perimeter, how can you tell? I am away from the settings right now.
I am using slic3r - does that have a minimum layer time? What would be a good setting?
What nozzle dia are you using and which printing width? Did you scale the benchy?
The nozzle is .4 and the width is 0.428 if I remember right.
No the benchy isn’t scaled
By 0.428 you don’t mean the layer height, do you?
The minimum layer time will reduce the printing speed if the layer would print in less then the set time.
For example if the layer would print in 4 seconds and you set the minimum layer time to 10 seconds it will slow down the print speed to reach 10 seconds per layer.
I think I set 5s which should be enough to cool the layer before the next layer will print on top of a not cold enough layer.
Do you print the outer or the inner perimeter first? For overhangs printing the perimeters from inside to outside gives the outest perimeter something to stick to.
What kind of printer is this from? Hotend model? I see individual extrusion lines that appear to have variable thickness within a few mm of extrusion path but it is hard to tell from one picture at one angle. For diagnostics provide side top bottom and angled views in good light, others will be able to help a million times more. I want to help but I need more to go on.
@Matthias_Peschek No, the height was 0.2 I think - I have the width set as .428 - a percentage of the nozzle diameter, a value I read on one of the calibration tutorials. I’ll take a look at the layer time, I think slic3r sets it to around 5s by default.
@Volker_Klaffehn I haven’t seen a setting for this in slic3r, so I guess it must be whatever the default is. I’ll try and find it.
@AlohaMilton The hotend is a hexagon, and has a bowden to a wades extruder. The printer itself is a Cobblebot Little Monster, with a bunch of mods. I appreciate all the help so far, and will make adjustments based on these comments, and come back with more pics!
Only adjust one thing at a time. I’d suggest a slower print speed, maybe 75% of what you’ve currently got. See if there is any improvement.
@Geoffrey_Forest Totally! I was planning to start with temperature