I've been reading alot about improvement  using sticks lately so last night I went

I’ve been reading alot about #adhesion improvement using #glue sticks lately so last night I went on a shopping spree and got all the different sticks I could find at ÖoB, Panduro, ClasOhlson. I’ll probably post a review of each of them on a later date.

Going from ABS juice and the bed at 110-120C (reported in software) I have just printed successfully on #mirror glass with two thin coats of UHU Stic with the #hotbed at 70C without any lift or warp! That’s a huge difference for me just in bed heat up time!

For all Swedes out there I got the UHU Stic at ÖoB, though I am sure other shops carry it too. A nice feature of this glue is that it is removable with cold water!

http://www.uhu.com/en/products/paper-glues/detail/uhu-stic-klebestiftohne-loesungsmittel-1.html?cHash=568e237b4bf2f8dc0e7d33bc1a156a4e&step=0

UHU Purple Washable works great.

Looking forward to the reviews!

I had problems with printing PLA directly on glass with out heated bed. Then I read on some forum to try paper glue and it works extremely well. I’m using UHU. Now my problem is to get the print of the glass.

@Sverrir_Fannar_Einar
Try popping the glass in the freezer for a few minutes!

@John_Driggers good idea. I must try that.

@Sverrir_Fannar_Einar I find that using 5mm brim in Slic3r makes removal easier. A thin knife or spatula can be slid under the brim much easier than directly under the edge of a thick solid object.

@korpx That is also a good idea. I must also try that when my next batch of filament arrives.

Interesting. I forgot to raise the bed temperature after a previous print and I got good adhesion at 35C too, easily removed by pulling the part off by hand after print ended.

I’ll have to add that the adhesion vs temperature is not the same from time to time with glue, and I guess that goes for other adhesion enhancers too. However at 70C it has not failed yet. I’ll try to go a bit lower and see if I can get a little less adhesion for easier removal.

It is among other things highly dependent on the thickness of the glue layer, so if I print a few times and then touch up the rouch area with some more glue I found that the object was not so easy to remove afterwards.

I haven’t tried the freezer method for removal since it’s too far to run and too time consuming as I am printing calibration pieces but if it is too stuck for brim+prying with a knife I usually get it off without too much effort if I can get hold of the object with a pair of wide nose plier and wiggle a tiny bit.

Maybe one should try to design some big clamp/plier inspired tools for this purpose. Hmm…

@Tom_Oyvind_Hogstad sorry for not reviewing any other glue sticks yet. I just haven’t had much time on my hands and a good reason to try anything else.

I am still on my initial UHU stic after many hours of printing and it is working beautifully!

I’m actually very happy with PVA “wood” glue. PLA sticks very well and comes loose easy when cold. I have just printed one thing in ABS on it and it also stuck very well. A liter bootle will probably last a lifetime for 3D printing and it’s very cheap.

(A small update with info I posted as a comment on another post.)

I still keep by bed at 70C and still using the same glue stick I started out with. It lasts a long long time.

The adhesion of the clue is marginally better when freshly applied/still sticky but then some of it comes off with the object.

I usually print on dry glue instead. After about three coats I find I don’t have to reapply in a long time.

UHU Purple Washable or Elmers Purple Washable School Glue are two of my favorites.