I’ve just moved to London; however my K40 is 110V. Now I have two options:
- 220-110 V Transformer
- New power supply
Need opinions on what’s the best option. Also - please provide links of reliable suppliers if possible.
Thanks
For ease of conversion I would just get a power converter, that way you just need to plug it in, no rewiring involved. However it may not be the most cost effective method, replacing the power supply would probably be cheaper. If you have basic electronics skills, I would then say replace the PSU.
Did you shure that there is not a little hiding switch on your power supply, to set the 110 voltage?
Some of the power supplies do have a voltage change - if a switch, as Ben says, that’s easy. If it’s soldered links, you need to be braver.
If you don’t want to do that, I’d say go with the transformer - you probably have other appliances that also need it.
Get one rated at least 500W, which should cost you under £50. In fact for £50 you can get a secondhand ‘site transformer’ : this is a big heavy yellow plastic-housed transformer used by builders to run their 110V tools and rated at 3300W or more. Very tough, nice to have on hand.
Come along to London Hackspace - we’ve got a big laser (80W, A0) for your large work, plenty of people interested and a few people own K40s too. Or South London Maker Space, if that’s more convenient for you.
Check the ground connection if transformer …
Check outside of current power supply ,most have 110 v and 240v switch,just switch it to 240
@BEN_3D doesn’t have one. I checked 
@artag will definitely come in one of these days. I’m staying in Stratford. Site transformer sounds like a good idea. Will check. Thanks.
The switch is hidden behind the panel so you might need to unscrew the power supply switch it and remount. It is not a flip switch but an simple black slider. You will overlook it easily and take it for a label.
All K40 LPS that I have seen have this switch 
I just moved to the UK. My K40 had a switch in the PSU and I switched it to 220v and it worked fine, but beware the fan at the back of the chassis is 110v, and you need to remove it and/or replace it with a 220v fan (or a 12v fan with a wall wart). Mine popped before I realized the fan was 110v, but no harm was done except a broken fan which is easily replaceable. One issue is I can’t find a source of distilled water, only deionized water, hopefully that is ok to use. works so far.
@Paul_de_Groot I’ll look again.
@Dushyant_Ahuja it’s just a black slider with 110/240 engraved. Hard too see since it’s all black maybe @donkjr has some photos of it.
#K40LPS
#K40ACPower
On left hand side of supply. Post pictures of your supply please showing connectors and this side.
@Wolfmanjm
#K40Coolant
I think de-ionized is ok as it is just purified with a different method. However the forums suggest that de-ionized can react with metals.
@Nedman what is your take???
I found these references:
http://www.ngceoservice.com/Data/DOC96/SVC-FSB-0008%20Water%20as%20Coolant%20for%20Lasers.pdf
De-ionized is fine as it, as the name implies, removes the ions from solution. Not sure why the “forums” think it can react with metal. De-ionization doesn’t remove uncharged organics or bacteria/fungus so you just need to make sure you change it out on a regular basis. DI water is the common type of water used in most chemistry labs as general use water.
The switch is missing.