Just did my first print. It wasn’t perfect but still ok.
Unfortunately, the foot of the robot broke when I was removing it. What did I do wrong? Should I perhaps put rubbing alcohol on the painters tape?
The good news is it stuck well! I have been using a guitar pick lately to un-wedge the model from the base, but anything wedge-like that will get under it will work. You will be happy you have that kind of stickyness when you build bigger models. 
Thanks. My second print came of easily using a metal butter knife. Happy
No heated bed here. I used to use “Blue Tape” but have switched to a PVA/H20 mix for my bed. Works great and I don’t have to spend time getting little bits of tape off print.
p.s. still need spatula to pry them off though.
What temps you using?
These days I print PLA at 200C onto a 60C bed (70C for blue tape as it insulates a bit).
I know they recommend printing around 180C but I just get really weak layer bonding there.
I print at 225!! No heated bed.
I’ve been having success just printing PLA straight onto a room temperature glass bed. It was sticking too well to blue tape so I just took the tape off, didn’t even change my z offset and it worked beautifully.
PLA shouldn’t be printed higher than 200, but whatever works for ya!
Printed a lot today and 225 seems to work great BUT perhaps my temp sensor is wrong?
Could be, my machine exaggerates the temps by 10 degrees or so.
Looking at the surface quality of your part and the overhangs, which is actually very good. There is no way that’s PLA at 225C, at least not any PLA I’ve ever used.
It is Ultimaker’s own brand of PLA
@Bracken_Dawson @Peter_Parnes Ultimaking Ltd sells PLA made of ingeo 4043D (the standard with 4032D) whose melt temperature is 210±8°C.
Silver and Gold pigments are the worst for 3D printing in any material.
@Peter_Parnes , so, how do you like your Ultimaker?? Did you go the DIY build route or pre-assembled??
@Ryan_Matthews , I love it bought the assembled one. I has been printing non-stop for 2 days now!!