@Jelle_Boomstra Actually, the Ultimaker board is GPL. Not cc-by-nc as most other mechanical parts.
But, the Ultimaker name is a trademark. So if they are selling this as an Ultimaker board they could be violating that trademark, which makes it very easy to get them kicked from e-bay.
@Jelle_Boomstra it will if you cut it from powering the arduino. then remove the poly fuses then d1 there are more changes than to be made with the 1.5.7 board. use as is except a ssr for the heated bed and either pus a heatsink on the 7812 with a fan, or replace with a switching regulator and done 24v ready .all components are capable of 36v but the linear regulator gets hotter the higher you go. the um board normally runs 19v to counteract this
@Daid_Braam http://www.ebay.com/itm/350898109143?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 that is their link.
I got this a a temp (so cheap) Ive tried to get um to release the gerbers for the 2.1.1 board or sell a board. That is what I want to run with. If ya’ll will sell me a bare pcb(or 2 for screw ups ;)) I really want to make my own board
My manager told me yesterday that you most likely could buy a 2.1.1 board if you send support an email. No idea about the cost.
And if you are near NL, we still have a stack of bare prototype PCBs without components that have a slight error in the silk screening. Should be easy to patch up and hand solder if you are into that. We’re just planning to do something silly with them like art on a toilet wall or something. So you could pick it up for free.
(I cannot make any promises about the gerber files right now. Sorry)
Jelle does mention something important about the Ultimainboard 2.x.x, the default temperature circuits use a PT100. These need to be amplified, so the circuit for that is on the board. The advantage is that it no longer has the short wiring issue that the UM-Origonal had with the thermocuple. Using it with thermistors (seen in most RepRaps) might be possible, but we did not try that.
The stepper current is set trough a filtered PWM output. (Not with expensive digipots) Just a minor technical thing.
The code to control all this is in the main ErikZalm Marlin.
We also use an OLED display on the UM2. The code for that is not in the main branch, as it was quite intrusive.
We’re using the as ATMega2560 as on the ArduinoMega2560. And the whole board runs on 24V, as a safety relay circuit (if one of 2 connections is cut, all motor and heater power is cut instantly).
It can be used with normal UltiControllers or clones.
@Daid_Braam thanks. I will email then today. I had asked before but was turned down. I am nowhere near no but would be more than happy to buy a few of the PCBs