Last week I posted about our new heater design… today another tease 
Coming soon to http://deltaprintr.com.
Probably going to get rid of the push fit and make a collet insert. Even smaller.
I find that the PTC fittings from E3D work best, and they have almost zero profile once installed. You just need to drill an 8mm hole and use an arbor press to install the brass ring.
Would be great to have a collet. What is the cost gonna be?? And weight? also when will it be available
Just weighted it on a regular weight rated for 75LB max, but need to use a smaller one to get accurate result. It showed about 1 ounce.
Dawww, it’s so cute.
How are you capturing temperature on the ceramic heater?
@Cruz_Monrreal_Mr_Cru Can’t reveal that yet 
We’ll have it at Maker Faire NY Sept 26-27 for people to hold it and look at.
Has it got a price tag yet?
Careful about making that tip too pointed. It needs to be able to flatten out the filament. The flat spot should be at least 2x the diameter of the hole size.
It sounds like you’ll be using some sort of inductance or resistance sensing on the heater to determine temperature. Good luck!
Using inductance would be interesting since magnet wire isn’t rated for super high temperatures: http://www.mwswire.com/pdf_files/mws_tech_book/page2_3.pdf
@Stephanie_A Not necessarily – there’s different schools of thought. People using Slic3r typically extrude strands significantly wider than the nozzle orifice, largely because Slic3r’s extrusion volume calculation assumes semi-circular side-bulges, which only occurs if the extrusion width > [orifice + layer height]. So the “flat nozzle tip to flatten filament” concept largely comes from a specific slicer behavior.
If you get rid of that specific volume calculation assumption, such as by using S3D, Makerware, Craftware, or many other slicers, you can reliably and cleanly extrude with extrusion strand width = orifice size, and the nozzle can be as sharp as you want.
People argue about which is better, but my opinion is that the sharper nozzle and narrower extrusion width gives nicer-looking and stronger prints.
@Stephanie_A
Sorry, but you are wrong. Have you ever seen prints from a merlin hotend. The tip of the nozzle couldn’t be more narrow.
The other thing regarding temperature measurement with resistance. If you choose the right material its no problem. But your electronics needs to be prepared.
Its quite normal to measure electronic motors this way in the industry.
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen , the Merlin hot end also doesn’t produce nearly as nice top infill as something like the E3D
@ThantiK I don’t see any top fill quality difference between an E3D nozzle and a (quite sharp) Makerbot nozzle.
The Merlin hotend doesn’t produce good top infill, but it does produce amazing tolerances. It has an extremely sharp tip, which is used for airbrushes, so it’s not custom made. Makerbot on the other hand does have nice tips, but the layers don’t bond well. It’s all minuscule changes between all these tips and there’s always trade offs. We did a LOT of research to find the best nozzle angle/size/width, etc… for our purposes and I think we found a good combination.
@Shai_Schechter Why do you say the Makerbot nozzle layers don’t bond well?
@Ryan_Carlyle They barely have any flat surface at the tip of the nozzle, therefore the perimeters are somewhat thin. It really depends what/how you’re printing. It’s not very noticeable.
@ThantiK
Yes that’s basically true. But this only means that both things are a compromise. A flat nozzle is good for smooth top layers. A narrow nozzle is good for accuracy of outer walls and smooth walls.
My experience is that there is basically no perfect nozzle. Its always a compromise.
@Shai_Schechter So you add another perimeter to get the same total shell thickness. I’m not seeing how layer strength comes into the picture. In fact, my experience is that extruding wider than the nozzle orifice (at the same volumetric flow rate) makes the part more brittle and have WORSE interlayer bonding. I don’t know exactly why, but I suspect the wider strand experiences more contact cooling while the material is still flowing, causing increased strain alignment of the polymer molecules. That makes it more anisotropic and less tough. (Might actually make nylon stronger though, since it could strain-crystallize.)
The consensus viewpoint I’ve seen in the Makerbot/clone user community is that sharper nozzles and setting extrusion width = nozzle orifice is all-around better for performance, both of top infill and strength. I’m fairly confused by the viewpoint here. The only good reason I’ve ever heard for requiring extrusion width > nozzle orifice is that Slic3r’s volume calculation can’t handle thin extrusion widths.
Check out some of Stratasys’s nozzle patents, they seem to be pretty convinced that the nozzle dragging the filament around is a cause of print quality problems.
@Whosa_whatsis and I have argued about this before, eg see https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/3dp-ideas/2FG_gUxa_fE