Quick and dirty extruder stepper cooler from a old Dell Northbridge heatsink and 24v fan.
3 ) My “Project Frustration Squirrel” hall of shame. Sad but the spiral vase version is the best so far.
Seriously thinking of ditching the corexy / hbot design. Racking and wierd infill isues are driving me nuts.
I am thinking if using the two y-steppers in parallel with the old linear rails and new independent Y carriages. Then a new x-axis with the stepper mounted on one of the Y the carriages. Also want to have X rails side-by-side versus over/under for rigidity.
Also I changed my heated silicone mat location. I used to have it mounted under the main 1/4" thick aluminum z bed. Now it is z bed, then 3 layers of 1/8" cork, then the mat, then 4 layers of thick aluminum foil, finally the glass. Heatup times are now 1/10th of what they were… And I can actually hit abs bed temps.
Less build area now… But overall I am tons happier than before.
Have you seen the QU-BD revolution machines? Sounds like the mechanics you describe are the same as those bots. Twin Y steppers should offset the impact of moving a Nema around on the x stage.
You might also want to consider the cable bot design of @David_Moorhouse The QU-BD design is pretty inelegant compared to Ultimaker or cable driven systems. Davids design looked like it solved the racking issues inherent to hbots but I don’t think I’ve seen a print come off it yet.
@Joe_Spanier film? Do you mean the green painters tape (Menard’s knockoff of 3m blue painters tape)? It is my cheep method to hold everything to the bed until I finalize my design and make mechanical clamps. I am really surprised how well that stuff holds up.
Or if you mean the wavy look under the glass? That is aluminum foil to act as a heat spreader between the silicone heating mat and the glass.
Yea wavy. It doesn’t look like your printing on glass. Neat effect haha. A friend and I have been using the glossy ceramic tile from menards with our silicone beds. Gets super hot and with a bit of hair spray your get great adheasion and they just pop off when cool. No tape or anything for abs. Just hair spray straight on the tile.
Takes a bit of work to get flat ones but if you head over to the level aisle they have tons of straight edges to use
H-bot was not designed for gantry systems as it will always generate backlash on 45 degree angles.
I tried both H-bot and core XY on Cartesio with very stable linear slides and it still gave backlash.
Just try moving only 1 of the motors by hand back and forth, and you will see that the side on which the motor is, will move before the other side will.
@Melvin_Chen I have not. To be honest with all the racking issues I have been fighting I think I will just be switching straight to a Cartesian setup with independent axis. I now see the issues other have faced with belt tension and racking. Not sure its worth fighting these limitations anymore.
that is odd, I switched from hbot to corexy and see no backlash or racking on my X gantry at all. Looking at the corexy design I do not see how there can be any racking. This seems to have a good explanation… http://joshuavasquez.com/docs/jVasquez/Projects/coreXY.html
@Joe_Spanier I use marlin right now. I have thought about trying something else. I am open to suggestions… But it seems like marlin has the most active development.
What made me ask is it looks like (from the article above) for some axis movement, in x, both motors need to move concurrently but for movement in y, the motors would move separately. Or I’m misunderstanding the graphic
I use Smoothie and a smoothieboard. @Joe_Spanier with corexy movement in X or Y both motors turn, a diagonal move though only one motor will turn,. but needs to turn twice as much. @Eclsnowman Yea it couldn’t hurt trying corexy it only needs two extra bearings. It worked for me One thing I did was have the belts run one above the other, that avoids doing that tricky cross over.
One thing I did was have the belts run one above the other, that avoids doing that tricky cross over.