Leaky kraken. Time for new teflon tape on the barb threads.

Leaky kraken. Time for new teflon tape on the barb threads. Any tips for getting the old stuff off?

I’ve used a torch before. Just melt it. Lol. Might turn it a little black though. Honesty, when I run into this issue I usually just add more tape. Lol. You just gotta fill in the cracks.

…brass wire brush!

I just use a pick on it usually.

Brass wire brush for the teflon tape residue. If there is melted filament stuck in there (from leaking?) I use a soldering iron to heat the block up and then wipe it out with a q-tip.

Water cooling hose barbs, not filament heat break barbs :slight_smile:

Ah! makes more sense. I’ve not used a Kraken before so I wasn’t sure where the issue of leaking would show up. :slight_smile:

I’d be hesitant to burn it off, the thermal decomposition products of teflon are really unpleasant. You could probably just slap more on, honestly.

Thanks all for confirming, wire brush and peel approach worked, combined with nature’s pick aka my fingernail.

Clean threads with wire brush, makes sure threads are fully dry. Then use this:

Millrose 70885 Monster Roll PTFE Thread Seal Tape, 1/2-Inch x 1429-Inch, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YA09D0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SwINzbTXJNWHP

It is essentially Teflon tape infused with locktite blue. As you tighten the fitting the locktite blue comes out filling tiny gaps normal thread tape can miss. I use this on 10,000 psi fluid systems on NPT threads.

You can likely get it at your local hardware store also.

@Eclsnowman 10,000 psi on NPT fittings? Hell no, I’m not getting near that :stuck_out_tongue:

You can get it at menards. Thats what we use on all our fittings in my shop too. Its awesome.

@Ryan_Carlyle it’ll hold. No problem. Just don’t buy offshore fittings. Lots of suppliers have domestic and offshore prices. Each have their own certs. Offshore fails at drastically lower ratings.

Now granted, at those pressures you should be using some form of face seal fittings. But I have been at a few of the reputable fitting manufacturer sites. You might be surprised how high a pressure standard npt fittings can take on the bench. 6x safety factor is not out of the question.

@Eclsnowman I’ve seen 1/2" NPT rated 15k (in monel!) , but by policy, we don’t allow NPT over 5k. The problem is the lack of torque spec on NPT in general – if some gorilla of a field tech over-tightens the fitting, the tapered thread builds up enormous stresses with really no limit except thread yield. If you’re lucky, the threads rip out during over-tightening and not when pressure is applied. It’s simply not something you can control properly in field service. There’s no reliable way to tell whether it’s too loose or too tight until it leaks or breaks.

In comparison, swaged tube fittings have makeup feeler gauges and coned/threaded or flare fittings have torque specs. Or, lazy field techs can consistently thread hand-tight “plus X eights of a turn” and still get reliable results.

At my previous job, we had a shop full of many hundreds of badly over-tightened autoclave medium pressure fittings, and every single time they’ll safely yield the sealing cone without any risk of thread damage or catastrophic separation with pressure applied. MP and HP Autoclave is a very abuse-tolerant style of fitting, which is a major reason why it’s superior for high-pressure safety over 37 degree flare JIC (which cracks the female flare when overtightened) and Swakelok (which parts the tube under pressure when over-tightened) and NPT (which strips out the female threads under pressure when over-tightened) and basically everything else.

@raykholo I found reliable trust in fluid threadsealing Loctite 542:

@Kevin_Danger_Powers Are you aware that burning PTFE result in highly toxic Fluorine compounds - Never do this! Also this will leave Hydrofluoric acid on your part - you don’t want that either.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever

@Ulrich_Baer nope. Good to know though. I just melted mine outside, scraped it with a wire brush and then (after it cooled) cleaned it with some acetone.

That’s a super old either very first batch or even Beta kraken! The first barbs we used were totally self-designed and machined M8 threaded parts.

We switched to 1/8thBSPT (tapered thread) fittings in later batches, and also moved from teflon tape to Loctite 542 as per @Rene_Jurack s suggestion.

We’ve never had a single reported instance of leaking, and if that old-gen version continues to give you trouble just get in touch and I’ll get you over a new block and barbs.

@Sanjay_Mortimer1 that’s pretty sweet. I’ve been wanting to get into liquid cooling but just can’t really justify the cost. It’s a lot of money that could be put into a better GPU or something.