Making the ox work! For anyone interested, the aluminum is 5052, .25".

Making the ox work! For anyone interested, the aluminum is 5052, .25".

Estlcam settings:
Diameter tool: 3.21mm (1/8" endmill from fastenal, only $8!)
Z depth per pass: 0.4mm
Feedrate x/y: 4mm/s
Feedrate z: 0.3mm/s
Spindle speed: 30,000??? (max on dwp611)
Step over: 18%

The ox can do some amazing work if you take it slow. Before adding the c-beam Z axis aluminum didn’t work very well…

Thanks Smw3d & openbuilds!

Nice. wHAT CHANGES NEED TO BE MADE TO USE THE cBEAM ON THE z AXIS?

I took apart the X carraige, marked out 4 holes to line up with the slots in the C beam, and used four m5 screws into t-nuts to hold it on. This way the height is adjustable. As for other changes, I had to change the polarity of the stepper motor (I have a TinyG). It is easy to reverse the polarity by accessing the settings in Chilipeppr. The Steps/mm was the same, since it’s the same pitch leadscrew as came with my Ox kit from SMW3D.

I purchased a 250mm linear actuator from SMW3D, put it together, and used the NEMA23 motor from my Ox, luckily I had left a good amount of extra wire since the 250mm sits higher than the standard Ox motor.

If I didn’t explain that well, let me know. I will be taking it apart again soon and could get some better pictures, when I borrow the Z for my R7 project

It seems pretty simple to me, but I would still love to see some pictures. Thanks.

Cool. I never really liked how “fiddly” the Z axis was to assemble. It always felt like it “just barely” works (but, it does work). Please post pictures. I may consider this when I rewire my Ox. I don’t like the TinyG being mounted on the X axis, and I want to take it off the frame into its own enclosure and get the wiring neater.