Making use of the oxygen inhibition layer per the Carbon3D/CLIP announcement, Gizmo 3D tries it out with a submersion style resin printer. The top of the resin is inhibited by O2 so instead of trying to print right at the surface of the resin, you focus just underneath it ( 150 microns or so ). This also avoids meniscus defects caused by the part disturbing the surface of the resin.
30mm in 6 minutes at approximate 50 micron z axis resolution. No need for expensive Teflon AF film.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoAqoc4sLTY
Surface finish pics?
If this can do single micron layers like Carbon3D does, that’s absolutely hilarious.
It’s obviously got the same advantage they have WRT fine features: No peeling going on here means hair sized features will print just fine.
The effective layer size depends on light intensity, O2 conc, and Z speed. Of course you should think of this as more like layer resolution. But 30 mm at ~50 microns in 6 minutes is incredible.
@Fabio_Gilii dá uma olhada
@Nick_Parker I am trying to print a very high detailed ring using continues printing. When I get it to work perfectly I will post it on the http://gizmo3dprinters.com.au website. I need to upgrade the software so that I can go between continues and standard printing. The ring that I am printing has some really tiny features and some big flat areas. If you have a look at one of my first mini blog posts on http://gizmo3dprinters.com.au you will see some photos of the Formlabs rook/castle that I printed a couple months ago. I think continues printing will be fine for thin walls, but I don’t think it will work so well for thick walls.
The printer can print 1 micron Z, it is more a question of the resin, the item you are printing and getting the power correct. When I printed the ring last night the resin smoked and I was printing at 1 millisecond per layer. It is the big flat surfaces that is a problem
Almost all the hobby printers are going for the bottom-up method of printing. The big reason for this was the resin was so expensive a couple years ago when Formlabs launched. Now resin is $65 per liter, not $200 anymore so no reason to use bottom-up anymore.
The current vat I have in the machine is a 4L vat. So if you use the Fun To Do standard blend resin it will cost you ±$260 AU$ or $205 US$ to fill the vat. The guys pay that much really quickly on new vats for their bottom-up printers.
The biggest vat that can be installed in the machine (this beta is 2 meter tall machine) is around 85 liters. Ofcourse 85 liters is too much for most. This machine was specifically designed so that I could print laser skirmish guns for my laser skirmish business (http://lasercommando.com.au). I also designed 2 smaller machines.
All machines will be able to fit a build plate of 400mm x 250mm. The smallest can print around 200mm tall objects, the middle one around 400mm tall objects and the biggest almost 1m tall objects
Or you can float the resin on heavy salt water.
Don’t think its viable for commercial machines but I am building my hobbyist machine this way. The fast print speeds are too good to pass up vs what’s available now.
@Daniel_Joyce What oxygen concentration are you using? And how are you controlling that?My biggest concern with this method is when pushing the rate too hard and smoking resin, the O2 could make things more… exciting, shall we say.
@Mark_Fuller I like the way you say it. I haven’t had a fire yet and I have caused resin to smoke many times before. When I started with printing I used to display a layer for 20 seconds, because I didn’t know any better. The resin just curls up. I believe the Fun To Do industrial blend can handle up to 200 degrees C when making molds. I didn’t reach that temperature yet.
@Daniel_Joyce Many of the commercial machines are actually top down printers. I believe the guy that designed the first 3D printed gun actually bought a top-down second hand and used that to develop his guns. You might be able to find videos of his first development somewhere.
I am working hard to get 4 prototype machines made in the next month. When my beta testers are happy I am planning on launching on Kickstarter. The most basic machine with a non HD projector will most likely be in the $2500 range
OH yes, but most users still find dumping $200+of resin in a vat still a bit expensive. If you own a $50,000 printer then $2000 in resin doesn’t seem like much. 
I guess its true, the definition of commercial keeps shrinking. I’m going with a modified pico projector using near uv leds.
Also working on gpu based slicing software running as a chrome app. I am working on a larger build with a 10" build depth, but because I am quickly needing a machine for development, I am banging together a ghetto immersion printer like this one
http://buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2768&sid=0eb83ffa629ffee474f7fe305f711892
Does the saltwater thing actually work? I’ve been playing with that, and I think I need some kind of resinphobic tank coating, because right now the resin just migrates to the edge and forms a meniscus that sort of sucks itself down by surface tension.
Also, going from the bottom up is attractive because you potentially have an arbitrary height from a finite-depth tank…
I haven’t tested salt water yet. I did read about it alot. I don’t know what will happen when you need to mix the resin and all the pigment is on the bottom and all the salt is on the bottom. I think the salt water works as long as you have salt in the water
Also I am working on a magnetic mixer so the user can just click a button and the resin will be mixed for them.
@Mark_Fuller I forgot to answer your question about oxygen. I don’t add anything extra. What ever is in the atmosphere. Currently the machine is open, it has no skin. I am planning on launching a competition on GrabCad to get a great looking skin designed using low cost manufacturing and as payment the winner will receive the basic version of the printer.
Wouldn’t that only be a concern if you were curing right at the surface? The intent here is to cure just below the surface. There is never a dry surface.
@travis_serio Yes to print big flat surfaces you need a wiper. The wiper will be an additional component available that can be added to the printer when I go live.
If you don’t have a wiper you will have bulges when printing big flat surfaces. If you don’t want bulges you need to print the same as bottom-up. Slant with many supports.
The engine parts that I printed and documented have bulges. I need to sand them off before assembly. The little rook that I printed came out perfect, because it is so small. The skulls that I printed came out perfect because the walls are so thin.
Yeah, I can see the inflow to cover large flat areas being difficult to get right.
@Gizmo_3D_Printers Ping me when you launch the competition. I could always use another printer (my wife disagrees)