My first attempt at a heated enclosure… It’s a cabinet from Ikea and I’m using an Arduino with a temp sensor and relay switch to toggle the reptile heat lamp. So far 10c above the ambient temperature, but it sure does take a while to heat up
try a blow dryer
That is like a sauna for your printer, with all the wood grain. Put a bench in there and a few dolls hanging out in towels, kickin it with the printer… no wait, dont do that. Just imagine it for a second.
Maybe Insulating the roof would help it heat up quicker?
@Abc_Def
Why the hell do you place it at the top? This will lead to a reduced heat up time, bad heat distribution and… Simply makes no sense…
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen why the hell are you so rude?
@Alex_Lee2
It wasn’t my intention to be rude. Sorry for that. Just bad formulated. Sometimes things are so obvious that I write before think about a friendly way to write what I mean 
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen no worries mate, maybe think before you post next time. Not everyone knows everything you know. Happy Xmas 
Maybe lining the upper half with foil would help?
Gotta agree with Sven. Consider turning the enclosure upside down. And placing your temperature sensor at or near the “working height”.
Consider using a very small fan to blow to heat around.
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen it was to keep the lamp a safe distance from the printer. If it was at the bottom , the light would shine directly to the side of the printer, likely melting it
With the light fixed the way it is, nothing is going to be close to it where it will get damaged. The printer would only be a few inches away from the light if it was at the bottom and at that distance, the box says it will produce >100c
@Abc_Def
A small wall between the printer and the lamp made of aluminum foil should fix this. At the same time you could move it very close to other plastic parts. But however, I think you should definitely consider to include at least @billybbob18 's approach
stay away from the blow dryer or any forced air solutions you want warm STILL air for abs,… I tried a 250 watt infrared heat lamp recently in a far better insulated box i built and it still was not enugh and yah get it as close to your print volume as possible and set your heat sensor at the same elevation as your bed height,… but still with my testing it would take at least a 500watt infrared heat lamp with good insulation,… ultimately i scrapped ABS all together because PET is far better a plastic and does not need all this silliness ABS does. cause what you will discover once you do get this rig working, is yes you have successfully kept the part hot during printing so that it does not warp and pull itself off of the bed during the print, unfortunately the part will still eventually need to be cooled and once that happens its still going to shrink a hair and cause print accuracy issues regardless aka, iv found it nearly impossible to print engineering grade FFF (FDM) prints in ABS even if you successfully keep it warm during print… eventually your going to have to turn that heater off,… at that time,. its still going to shrink/warp it will just do it a little more evenly but dependent on print settings and geometry of the part its still going to warp in a way that cant be corrected by just enlarging it by 0.5% however if you don’t care about engineering accuracy and only care about the fact that ABS is a little more heat resistant then n/m keep goin at it. otherwise,… PET
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen It is not something to be so worked up about. Also, it’s not going to effect heat up times unless there were a vent right above the light as well as an opening at the bottom for cool air, creating a path for heat driven convection to flow out of the enclosure. A closed space that size is going to equalize very quickly. With a heated bed at the bottom and the light at the top it may help reduce convection, which would be better for ABS. If the chamber is not fully sealed and cool air enters through seems at the top it will cool inverted like an inversion layer in a closed valley, cool air would drop creating unwanted airflow. The bulb at the top can actually help prevent that warming the air at the top farthest away from the heatbed.
I have no problem with the light position. I think the vent should be at the bottom below the level where the heated bed would be at. If it is at the top, I figure it will let hot air out and cold air in. It is not a fireplace, so I do not think you need a chimney. You may need the motors and electronics which are often, but not always at the bottom to be cooled, so the vent being low might help that slightly.
I do not have a heated enclosure myself, so this stuff is based on opinion with no heated enclosure experience to back it up. The closest I got to a heated enclosure was a 4 inch wall of aluminum foil.
The problem is this printer doesn’t have a heated bed like my others. That’s why I’m making an enclosure… The. Basement is a steady 15°c which isn’t good for abs. Although the cube 3 has printed abs really well
I am not sure if the heated enclosure will get you much progress for ABS without a heated bed.
If all else fails, try clamping some screen door mesh to the bed and print with a raft and tell us how well that works for you. The idea being that the plastic would be squished into the mesh and it would be held down that way. The mesh would have to be held down firmly though. You must not be able to lift it up from the bed.
With the glue stuff 3d systems includes, abs doesn’t really lift up. Haven’t had any delamination yet either