My first attempt to copper electroplate 3D print So I want to experiment with

My first attempt to copper electroplate 3D print

So I want to experiment with copper electroplating 3D prints (later: nickel).
This is the first experiment, so a long shot of being usable, but it gave some learnings.

I started with making the printed object conductive (I used some leftover older print in my scrap box).

To get a conductive surface I used carbon paint (MG Chemicals 838 - the first thing I could find that roughly met my idea). After three coats and drying, I got a surface resistance of about 1kΩ across the part. Not great, but should be enough.

As bath, I used a simple CuSO₄ solution; I used about 0.4 mol per liter (dissolved in distilled water). I didn’t have any sulfuric acid at home, which would be another recommended ingredient - mostly to dilute the copper concentration I presume. So anyway, I went with the straight copper sulfate solution. Plus a little drop of dish-washing detergent to reduce surface tension.

I started with about 80mA current, but due to the fact that the part is hardly conductive, most copper went straight to the connecting wire. So then I only half-immersed it, that the wire was not directly touching the electrolyte, later turned it around. I got some burn-marks when I attempted to crank up the current (high contact resistence = heat :)). These are the ‘holes’ in the result.

I didn’t get much coverage in the ‘inner’ parts - I presume mostly because the current density was not high there in the first place, and once the highly conductive copper was covering the other parts, these were essentially left alone.

I used a piece of a copper pipe and some copper scrubbers as anode.

After the piece was mostly covered with a thin layer of copper (80mA over night), I cranked it up, fully immersed, to 400mA (voltage was around 1.2V, so pretty low resistance electrolyte). For about 4h.

After taking out the part, it was a bit dull, so I scrubbed it with bathroom scrub detergent, which brought a bit of shine to it (I didn’t go fully to town on this, but looks like it can be made shiny).

First important learning is, that I need to accommodate the initial high resistance of the part, so that all areas of it get an equal chance to get covered. I presume I should start with a highly diluted electrolyte with a high inner resistance to impedance match the part - then the relative resistance of the connecting wire vs. the part vs. deep pockets in the part is not too high. Once a thin layer of copper is on there, put it in the more concentrated electrolyte.

Second learning: 400mA seemed to be too much, looks like little clumps of copper collected in some spots. Maybe this will be better if I have the full solution with sulfuric acid. Need to normalize per surface area.

Third learning: the anode gets messy and little parts drop down; probably I should contain that in e.g. nylon stocking (also less likely to accidentally short when moving the part).

ToDo: Get battery acid (sulfuric acid) and metal polishing stuff. And probably implement a function in OpenSCAD that returns the surface area of a module, so that I don’t have to calculate that part by myself.

Most important learning: looks promising. In particular, the adhesion seems to be pretty good.

Nice work Henner, are you trying to make copper parts? Or copper coated parts? (and yes Nickel is easy once you get the copper coat on :-). You could use the ‘lost wax’ technique to get a copper part, print it out of a low evaporation point material, put it in sand, then pour in molten copper. But I’m guessing you want to just take an existing part and add external copper.

There is a chemical mix that the PCB houses use called “plate prep” or something similar, it is applied like a resist except once applied it can be plated.

Another starting point might be a chemical coating that bonds to copper? Not sure, my chemistry here is woefully out of date. But if you had that you could perhaps use vapor deposition to get the copper attached.

Anyway, fascinating stuff as usual!

While creating parts using lost PLA would be nice, it is a whole lot more involved, starting from the need to get a smelter …
For most things, just a 50-100µm metal plating already comes a long way.

The plate prep sounds like some kind of conductive paint as well. Might be interesting to know what they use. Maybe somebody in this community knows ?

Forcing a reduction reaction on the surface that precipitate metallic copper to get a start layer could be interesting, but I am not aware of a method that also lets that stick firmly to the surface. So electroplating starting with a carbon paint seems like a good way for now; if I get over the hurdle of having the initial thin layer of copper evenly distributed, it should be pretty awesome.

I got some copper sulfate that is sold cheaply as material to remove unwanted ingrown roots in drains; I got it in a large 10lb bag, so it was cheap; < $1.50 per 250g (the electrolyte here needed about 100g, and I can re-use that for some time).

The conductive paint can was ~$20 and will last for a long time.

Then some copper scraps as anode and a current limiting power supply (which I had anyway). So it is really simple and cheap to get started.

Clever men thanks for sharing

Sweet. Instead of doing this in PLA, could you find something that would dissolve in a solvent that doesn’t also eat copper? (I’ve printed with ABS plus carbon fiber, but that doesn’t conduct as far as I could tell, FWIW)

Sulphuric acid acts as an electrolyte (charge carrier in the solution). It also helps disolve the cathode.
Low current and the right voltage produces even growth. Either too high you get dendrite formation = weak and porous.

Have a look at electroless deposit deposition for the initial conducting layer.

Also, any concave bits will coat poorly.

Here’s my first run at this idea. I do a lot of plating so I have everything already set up for this. I do nickel and silver also. Will post again once I document some more objects. http://www.thevirtualfoundry.com/3d-printing

Nice site, @Bradley_D_Woods . You have some copper bath recipes on your site; I’ll play with the bright copper one, as I indeed got some salmon/sandpapery finish before polishing.

Did you use conductive paint and then some low current to get a good strike for the plating ? How do you accommodate the voltage drop across the relatively high resistance paint ? I am considering either a low ion density starting bath or brush plating to get my next experiment going.

I use an acrylic paint that I came up with DIY. One easy way to handle this though… Go to a hardware store and get a can of Cold Galvanize. It’s nearly pure zinc powder in a binder. This will conduct electricity. But as a little bonus, zinc becomes (literally) copper when it comes in contact with cuso4. This layer that converts to copper will have almost no resistance. Well, for practical purposes any way. It’s not the easiest stuff to spray though. So take a few practice sprays first.

Interesting - I played a bit with a zinc plated piece of iron before and the copper didn’t stick at all; so I suspect the Cold Galvanize could be problematic as well. But I might try it when I can’t get things to work entirely with the carbon acrylic paint.

You could use dual material and conductive filament. Then electroplate it, this should allow you to make traces for carrying power.

Ground breaking design and development take time to enjoy this. And follow your emails instinctively

Try photons. Light spectrum would it be any different from ionic in solution. Watts the solution ironic

Are you saying that the plating is stronger than the forging or casting. Tempering. Can you polarized thin sheets

Thought of this post when I read http://bryancera.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/copper-electroplatingforming-3d-prints.html

Ha, looks like I am not alone trying this.